The old Kettners was loved because it was slightly different to other restaurants. It had a wonderful lived in, historic feel. For Londoners it was a special place.

That's all gone. Apparently, the marketing director of Pizza Express took the refurb on as his pet project and boy has he stamped all over it. The side booths are gone, he's put in a stupid marble breakfast bar in the middle of the room, he thinks people wanted different food – they don't. They liked the cheap and cheerful pizza in the luxurious, ambient location with the piano playing. It was charming and atmospheric.

We ate there after the refurb and the main courses arrived at different times. We complained and got invited back for a free meal. They duly cremated my steak. Terrible, I could barely be bothered to eat it.

I had so many good nights at Kettner's. It was an institution. It was a little something special. Now it's gone gone gone. It makes me so very sad, as it used to be such a cool place and now it's crap.

Nick West