The Olive Branch (Main Street, Clipsham, Rutland, Leicestershire, LE15 7SH) I wish those Michelin Men would run a course to explain to us mere mortals what they are looking for when they award those coveted stars! I have spent many an hour, up and down the country, sampling Michelin fare, and just when you think you have got it sussed, they throw in a curve ball! And the Olive Branch Inn is just such a curve ball. Don't get me wrong, the food is wonderful, it is just that the surroundings don't quite match up to the delights on your plate. It is a very rustic pub, and I have had wonderful meals in rustic pubs before and assumed that the lack of recognition, from Michelin or indeed anyone else, was due to the lack of fanfare and finery of the establishment. Apparently not so! There is no fanfare or finery at the Olive Branch Inn, so much so that when we walked in my husband asked, where is the restaurant? You are not greeted at the door, and have to queue at the bar to get your table pointed out. The wine list is adequate, but not long, although it is backed up by a list of ‘specials’, the only problem being they are displayed on blackboards around the bar, so take note when you are queuing! The menu is fairly standard gastropub fare, although exceptionally well done. You start with a small loaf of warm home baked bread, ours was pumpkin. My starter was prawn and shrimp terrine with melba toast, very good but a little bland. My husband fared better on the flavour front with mackerel salad with potatoes and truffle oil. But my main course of belly of pork was to die for. Cooked to perfection so it melted in your mouth, with a very thin crust of perfectly crispy fat. Accompanied by the standard fondant potato and red cabbage, but all to a very high standard. My dessert of treacle tart was delightfully light, apart from a slight overcooking of the crust. But our attention was drawn to the next table, who were oohing and ahhing over the platter of desserts for 2. There was 4 of them, and they had ordered 2, but they could have got away with one between…
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Link to this reviewAugust 2009 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 9 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 9 |
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| Value for Money: | 10 |
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Murano (20 Queen Street, London, W1J 5PP) When I booked our table at Murano I was warned that it would be turned in 2 and a half hours, and if necessary coffee would be served in the bar. This always puts a bad taste in the mouth before you have entered the door, however after our experience I fail to understand how they can carry out this policy. ‘The bar’ consisted of one table with just enough room for 4 people to sit around it, and after ordering the tasting menu it took them 4 and a half hours to serve it all to us! The food was indeed as good as expected from Angela, and unusually the tasting menu had choices on 4 of the courses, which was very welcome. However, the bug bear of the evening was the price of the wine, and the lack of choice. Yes a long list, but very little outside Italy and France and all with huge mark ups. £50 for a very average NZ Sauvignon, please! Also annoyingly on the night we attended it seemed that a large proportion of the wines were out of stock, with no similar alternatives available. Despite excellent food, at a price you would expect to pay to Mr Ramsay, we left feeling as if we had been fleeced. PS The loos do have mirrored doors, but they are in fact labelled if you look closely!
Link to this reviewJuly 2009 | | Overall: | 6 |
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| Food and Drink: | 9 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 8 |
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| Value for Money: | 3 |
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The Gun (27 Coldharbour, London, E14 9NS) I love a good gastropub, and living out of London that is what most of our local restaurants now are. So I was intrigued to visit the Gun, which has a reputation as one of the originals in the capital. And it certainly fitted the template, with modern no fuss decor, blackboard specials, tables close together and buzzing lunchtime trade. Being fussy about my wine, and it being lunchtime, I was delighted that they offer a good selection by the glass. Service was ultra efficient and the food really hit the spot. Not trying too hard, but you couldn't fault the quality. And I was delighted to sample the sea bream with samphire, especially as we had just returned from a weekend in Suffolk where I had scoured the local restaurants for the ‘asparagus of the sea’ only to return home disappointed. Easily accessible by DLR, it is really worth a visit.
Link to this reviewJuly 2009 | | Overall: | 8 |
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| Food and Drink: | 8 |
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| Service: | 8 |
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| Atmosphere: | 8 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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I have to ask how the London hotel trade is continuing to charge such exorbitant prices for an overnight stay in these hard times? I tried to persuade my husband that we should avoid the late night train journey home for our recent wedding anniversary, however he point blank refused to spend £400 on a pokey little box room, and suggested we blow it on an exceptional meal instead. Marcus Wareing had long been on my radar, so I didn't hesitate in picking up the phone! And boy am I glad that I am married to such a prudent fellow (some would say tight!). We had the tasting menu, of course, along with nearly everyone else in the restaurant that night. But it was difficult to refuse, as it is probably the perfect tasting menu for our personal taste. The pan fried fois gras with apricots and almonds was a marriage made in heaven. We asked the sommelier to recommend a dessert wine by the glass to accompany it, and he helpfully gave us each half a glass of the two wines that we chose, so we could compare and contrast them. The roasted quail was the only item on the tasting menu that I wasn't sure about, but it turned out to be the highlight. Cooked to perfection, it had the texture of velvet and was accompanied by what I can only describe as a baked potato mousse, which tasted and smelt of the crispy oven cooked skin of a potato, but melted in your mouth like a foam. Unusually for a tasting menu there was a choice of main dish and dessert, which is very welcome, as I have never known a married couple who agree on desserts! And if someone had warned me about the chocolate truffle trolley that accompanied the coffee I may have saved a bit more room. The service hit just the right note with us, we hate to be followed to the toilet! The staff seemed happy and relaxed and not the stuffed suits you find at a certain Hospital Road establishment. And the wine list lived up to its reputation. I'm afraid I will never be able to justify spending a fortune on wine when you can get a tasty new…
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Link to this reviewJuly 2009 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 10 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 9 |
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| Value for Money: | 9 |
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