The Prince Arthur (95 Forest Road, London, London, E8 3BH) The Prince Arthur had sold out of Aberdeen Angus. Not a problem for me – shit happens – and my wing-man soon came around. But being someone of faith that any Pub with requisite sense of its onions will go all out to cover all bases, I also know that whenever you sell numbers on a steak dish it means only one thing; there's not enough else to choose from. I respect a short menu. But if you're going to be concise you've got to be commercial. The trouble is that the ‘28 day aged Rib of Beef, Peppercorn Sauce and Hand-Cut Chips ( for two to share )’ (£38) was head and shoulders the most inviting thing on it. What was presumably the last portion was ferried past us as we walked in. It looked awesome. Everybody thought so. Everybody, it seemed, shared it. It was no more and it wasn't 8.30pm. In its absence, then, there was a decision to be made. I still want carrion, I know that. I've been shifting furniture all afternoon. What else is there? ‘Jugged Hare’. Absolutely clueless as to what that means. Didn't even bother with the accoutrements. Braised Cumbrian Chicken (with Chicken and Tarragon Mousse? You go to the trouble of making a cavity and then fill it with itself ?) What else is there? In the way of meat, I'd had it. There's a traditional Fish and Chips (£12.50), but we had that last night (Fish House, Lauriston Road), and there's a blonde Skate Wing from Guernsey (£15) who, despite bringing with her brown shrimp, egg, and a dill and horseradish dressing, I know from experience will be all skin and bone. So what did I end up with? Bubble and Squeak. What else ? Me old muckers B and S. With a crispy Hen's Egg – a perfectly runny, homemade ‘scotchie’ – and Hollandaise. £11 nicker. Chim-chim-cheroo. Chuffed, I was, an'all. And you can spare me your faux-cockney, anti-veggie panto protestations because it was, to quote Alfie Doolittle, ‘lavverly’. They pull it off here at the Arthur for number of reasons. Firstly, the greeting as we entered was all smiles and personality…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 8 |
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| Food and Drink: | 8 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 7 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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The Blue Lion (East Witton, Yorkshire, DL8 4SN) In many ways the Blue Lion at East Witton is about as idyllic a pub as you could hope to find. A few miles south of Middleham, N.Yorks, you can stay there too but, in spite of the accommodation being very nicely done, it's much more a pub with rooms than a country inn or hotel. The food's excellent – high-end pub to restaurant quality – and the building itself is an absolutely charming place to eat and/or drink. Complete with all the features that regularly have Alistair Sawday types crossing their legs – open fires, flagstones, wood panelling, local ales – it is indisputably a pub. Did I say that already? It feels like a pub. The way it carries itself, though, it nevertheless feels entirely wrong. There was a distinct air, having walked in, that no one quite knew what to do next. You're funnelled into the main room past the back of a curved settle and into the heart of a curiously amassed throng gathered at the bar, none of whom appear to be getting served. There's a guy leaning obtrusively at one side with a broadsheet newspaper, apparently waiting for a train. A number of people are wandering in between tables, none of which are occupied although they're all reserved, looking at the huge blackboard menu which dominates the room. ( I've bleated about this before, but it's inconveniently situ…oh, who am I kidding ? It's in the wrong place.) The Maitre-d, dressed as if he's off to a Prom and old enough to know better, is scurrying between customers writing orders on the hoof. Everyone is in everyone's way. It's a mess. I want to stand on a stool in the middle of the room and blow as hard as I can on a whistle. Having had our order taken and opted on booking to eat in the restaurant ,we're led down a bizarrely unkempt and brightly lit corridor to a very handsome, high-ceilinged dining room. A bit like a mortuary with a fireplace. One couple in the corner, whispering so as not to wake the cadavers, were far too polite to ask a second time for more wine after their waitress…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 5 |
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| Food and Drink: | 8 |
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| Service: | 4 |
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| Atmosphere: | 3 |
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| Value for Money: | 5 |
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Charles Lamb (16 Elia Street, London, N1 8DE) Pubs in residential areas tend to fall into two categories. The first resemble static caravans and service overspill-estates. Generally, unless you’re 6’3”/250lb, you wouldn’t walk through the door of one without being prepared to leave via a window. In the other are those extraordinarily charming, terraced backstreet nirvanas that blend in so seamlessly that the only clue they’re there at all is their softly illuminated, gently swaying, come-hither signage. The kind of place, as I once heard a wise man say – Richard Stilgoe was it ? – about which telling someone is like boasting you know how to find it. A few streets back from Angel tube, the Charles Lamb is a boozer that knows its business. Marketed as a Pub and Kitchen (read ‘booze’ and ‘nosebag’), it’s unpretentious – there’s no accounting for everybody that uses it – has been appointed classically and with excellent taste, and then split aesthetically and spatially down the middle. Always busy and atmospheric, the range of product on offer in this pub is pound for pound about as good as I’ve seen and the wide-ranging demographic in attendance is testament to its appeal. Immediately of note, particularly during the colder months, are the warm spiced cider and the mulled wine. Both well-considered crowd -pleasers and pertinently, for those with a healthy, well-meant enjoyment of a mixed clientele, both pleasers of crowds of women. Smart move. Another real asset is the expertly assembled wine list which features at its head the Charles Lamb’s own cuvee, sourced directly from French producers as a conscientious move to curtail rising wholesale prices. This represents terrific value as the cornerstone of an all-European portfolio, among which a guest is normally available by the glass. Along the bar is a balance of everything you might reasonably expect in the way of lager, as well as a couple of continental options you might not. In the way of beer, not every hand pump is in operation at all times, but the stock real ale…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Drinks: | 9 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 10 |
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| Value for Money: | 9 |
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The Boot Inn (Old Warwick Road, Lapworth, Solihull, West Midlands, B94 6JU) At the tail end of an Easter weekend spent gorging on pap, drinking everything I was invited to and playing poker, I rather felt an obligation to my physical being to make a relatively modest selection. A shout that was, arguably, moot as I simultaneously sipped through four pints of London Pride. 'You're going to tell me I'm as crazy as a sh*thouse rat', I said,' but I'm going to have the vegetarian lasagne'. ‘You are crazy’, I was told with a disapproving look. Not for the language, you understand, but for the show of conservatism. ‘Is it a bad thing that I want everything on the menu?’. Of course it's not. With an ostentatiously furnished interior matched by a showy array of motors in the car park, the Boot has long been an institution in this well-to-do spot not far south of Birmingham. As a visual spectacle it's as rewarding as they come, attractive in red-brick with real fires in either bar, stripped tables, deep coloured walls and tons of personality. A personality matched, particularly on this occasion, by the service which was polite, prompt and executed with good humour. And Sky Sports' own Andy Gray drinks here. His weapon of choice on home turf seems to be a white wine spritzer, an affectation I can't think he gets away with when he's on the tile with Keys, Kammy et al. If the marauding style of his playing days is any clue, Gray's the type that would normally tie one on while beating his chest and throwing his own faeces. The dining room at this pub, in line with the expense of the Boot's overall aesthetic, can feel a little try-hard. Often in the past I've been ever so slightly underwhelmed by the food, maybe because of the way it has compared to the environment. If you're looking to eat I'd recommend booking a table in the bar. In fairness to the restaurant, and as Benson's comment implied, I think this was as varied and appealing a menu as has been offered here for some time. With back-to-work blues for two out of three of us beginning to kick in, and…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 8 |
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| Food and Drink: | 7 |
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| Service: | 8 |
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| Atmosphere: | 9 |
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| Value for Money: | 9 |
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