Oh yes, Murano is very good – it's very good indeed. Don't be put off by the Ramsay family moniker – like Atherton at Maze, this definitely is the home of Hartnett rather than the angry craggy-faced headliner. Also, try and look past the strangely staid and emotionless dining room – this really is the Deatheater of decor – it's truly extraordinary how how they've manged to suck all the life out of the room. Get beyond it, sit down, salivate over the menu, then prepare for a treat.

Becuase this is excellent, yet refreshingly “simple” cooking. You don't need a dictionary to translate every second menu option – you'll just need a few extra belt holes becuase if you manage to avoid hitting the full 3 courses then you've a stronger will than I.

From the pre-starter of excellent Italian hams and cheeses, past the tuna carpaccio with pork belly, up and over the duck with beetroot gnocchi and right through to the stunning pistachio souffle, this was a food journey I'd willingly take over and over again. Genuinely fantastic food. Wines were good but definitely weighted towards the fatter walleted patrons.

All this place needs is for Angela Hartnett to impress her personality on the dining room as well as the food and there won't be many better places to visit in London.