I haven't enjoyed a new restaurant experience quite as much as I enjoyed Polpetto in the last 12 months. The buratta was creamy and delicate sitting on top of earthy lentils with just enough bay and root veg. Little pork shoulder meat balls were aromatic with a perfect amount of fennel seeds and the accompanying tomato sauce would have made me happy on its own. Octopus with potato was sitting in a generous slick of really grassy olive oil and parsley, as good a dish of polpo as I've ever had in Spain or Italy. I also loved the inclusion of the little pink bottles of san bitter so common with an aperitivo in Milan yet the first I've seen over here.

Ok, the food was so delicious and the service so friendly that perfection was just around the corner. Firstly, if you're gonna top a slice of bruschetta with chickpeas and spinach then mash a few of the pulses so it's possible to eat the thing without watching the little peas bouncing off round the room! Secondly, and this is odd, there is no bread in the building??? I've never been to a restaurant the length or breadth of Italy that didn't stick a few slices of sourdough on the table. For some bizarre reason Polpetto can't even bring a couple of slices to the table on request, with food this fantastic how on earth am I supposed to wipe the plates clean.

If you' don't want to see a grown adult licking plates in the dining room then use your loaf and get some bread in.