All great restaurants have their day, and the Ivy has done well to hold-on as long as it has. I've noticed however that it is getting noticeably easier to get a table here – and harder to celebrity spot (admit it, we all do it !).

I suspect that most of the celebrities have been tempted by membership of the Ivy Club round the corner, where the food is simillar to the expensive end of the Ivy menu, and people can be sure that the others spotting them are there to be spotted as well.

I've been to the Ivy “proper” many times over the years and a couple of times in recent weeks. The food is as good as ever – in other words good, not great. My tip: the duck salad, followed by the corned beef hash with a glass (or shared bottle) of one of the relatively inexpensive white wines available. That, or one of the simple pasta dishes with one of the lighter starters are perfect for a lively and surprisingly good value lunch with a friend or for schmoozing purposes. Just don't expect anyone to notice if you've been there many times or not, or whether you tip well or not: the reception staff will be equally (in)attentive and the service (good or bad depending on the day) unaffected. Sensitivity about which table you have been given will only spoil your enjoyment – I suggest you do as I do, be glad I haven't paid the sub to join the Club so as to pay even more for my meal. The room itself has great atmosphere, especially on a sunny day and I normally emerge happy and envigorated to face the afternoon's work, so I suppose it shows that if you approach the Ivy with the right expectations it rarely disappoints.

MARCH 2011

I'm updating my review from one year ago (below). I'm slightly sad that there have been no reviews since that date. However, for once, I totally agree with the Squaremeal description of the restaurant, which I think is more or less spot-on.

Primrose Hill is lucky to have this soi-disant “bistro du coin”. As such is totally meets the description as well as being authentically gallic. I recently took my wife, two sons and their long-term girlfriends there to celebrate the youngest's 27th birthday. Everyone was in a good mood and the whole evening complemented it, from the well executed Cote de Beuf which two people shared, to the more usual staples (see below). My wife had salmon on a bed of carrotts and leeks which she enjoyed and I had the boeuf bourgignon which, while setting no trends or being worthy of paroxyms of praise, “did what it said on the tin”. The wine which was at the cheaper end of the list did not disappoint and the service was as usual familiar, warm, humourous and endearing.

MARCH 2010:

My wife and I live locally and we have been here a number of times. Initially, I felt that the food did not match the good idea regarding the way wines are priced. Nominally, the wines have uplifts of £5, £10 and £15 over the retail price depending on quality. I have to say that I'm not sure that the uplift is on the wholesale prices (go compare with wholesale equivalents)… but still results in a reasonable outcome.
The food is fine, not great, French bistro food. The Cassoulet being my own favourite, though purists might think that it is not fatty enough (which is a plus for me !). Where this restaurant scores heavily is with the staff who are authentically Gallic, but not of the snotty variety, and the atmosphere which is normally really quite busy (in a nice way) and warm (in a spiritual way). This is the sort of place where friends can meet, drink, argue, debate, laugh and – possibly – celebrity spot. It has stood the test of time (which the White Truffle and other predecessors on the site have not) and I suspect that it will continue to be one of those pleasant and unpretentious, accessible sort of places for some time to come.

Please don't try to drive to the Holly Bush: you'll spend hours trying and you'll end up having to walk a long way! That of course is not the HB's fault. It is in a lovely nook at the top of Holly Hill, and despite the exterior quiet (lots of neighbours), it is absolutely bustling inside, where you will find a young-ish crowd in an unpretentious old-fashioned pub setting.

I first went to the HB some 40 years ago – amazing though that is to me. I was under age, but “got away with it”. Although the place still seems familliar (I have not been there for years), any similarity with the old place is purely co-incidental. Six old friends (three couples) most of whom have known each other since teenage, went there for a meal before going to the Everyman – round the corner – to catch a film on a Saturday evening. I had Cumberland Scotch Egg, followed by Meat and Ale Pie with mash washed down with a pint and a half of lager. Everything was just as it should have been. A number of our party had the fish pie and all pronounced it fishy and satisfying, as (apparently) was the cheap Merlot they were drinking. One person had the prawns in a pint and enjoyed it enormously. When I arrived, the booking had been taken for the wrong time, but the waitress was very helpful and we were soon seated. This typified the service we received which was friendly, but not gushing, and efficient.

In summary: unpretentious, unassuming, unflappable, yet satisfying, decent value for money and an altogether decent place to go.

I've now been to Cigalon three times. The first time, I thought the light and the setting attractive, and the “get-up” of the waitresses (tight black trousers, white shirt, black braces) quite fetching – but the food a touch disappointing and the value so-so. I went back a second time as I am fond of French cuisine (clue in image used for I.D.). I enjoyed the salade nicoise and the guinea fowl too, while the wine was good value. Also enjoyed pouting waitress. So when I was invited back last week, I was looking forward to it. Ah well, should have quit while I was ahead. Clearly this is now a place that thinks it has arrived. The delays in every stage of the proceedings were really irritating, the waitress (a different one) had “dead eyes”, if you know what I mean, and even the manager coming in to take an order did not result in things improving. The food was still slightly better than what I consider to be average acceptable standard – but the whole experience became frustrating an irritating for everyone with our host pretending not to notice that his guests were now hyperventilating with stress to leave for afternoon meetings. If you decide to try it out, I suggest that you go “a la carte” rather than the prix fixe menu as those of our party who did made some appreciative comments. Those – like me – who tried to be “good guests”, did not. On the latest evidence, this restaurant has in less than one year opened, got itself going, attracted reviews from three “Gold Reviewers”, peaked and now seems destined to alienate. Perhaps a bit harsh, but the problem for me is, I just don't want to rush back to find out !

I really enjoyed my first taste of this friendly, light, unpretentious local restaurant. This is not haute cuisine, it is rather “honest cooking” with decent wine available. We asled our waitress about the wine choice to discover that her recommendation was spot-on which is not all that usual. Our waitress was friendly, enthusiastic and clearly loved to work there. The food was good, and matched expectations, though my sliced steak was not particularly memorable. I know my wife enjoyed her fish, but this was more of an overall experience than a foodie paradise. The lady who seemed to own the place took the trouble to come round and ask for views. suggestions and criticism. She engaged with us in a non-defensive and open-minded way, taking in all that we had to say. We wiill be returning soon. This is a valuable and welcome addition to the local dining choice and my wife and I left feeling appreciated as customers and really very happy with our evening and overall experience.

Went there yesterday lunchtime: rainy autumn day. The cosy, warm, subterranean, low-ceilinged room is a great place to get away from the cold and rain, comes into its own when the weather is bad. I have been here quite a lot over the years, and in my view anyone who classifies this as a “bistro” is sadly mistaken, it is a proper restaurant, with proper restaurant prices and pretentions which, sadly, it failed to be reflected in the delivery. I do agree that the Tinity Hill wines (not at all cheap) are the best value, especially the Pinot Noir. I also like the atmosphere very much – discreet, quite smart, warm tones, the odd familiar face. The food, however, is ordinary and rather meanly portioned. The lamb rump was ok but undistinguished, and the same can be said of the foie gras terrine. Each was under-seasoned and the starter failed to taste of much at all. Worst though, was the service from a “faux French” waitress who had no delicacy of manner, plonked plates before us reaching over the middle of the table, what a joke ! No Bistro, let alone restaurant with a name to protect, should allow untrained waiting staff loose on customers expecting (and paying) for something a bit less at odds with the rest of what the place is trying to achieve. Seems to me, though I don't mean to be mean or unfair, that standards are slipping -whether through hubris or because times are tough, I just do not know. I would love to be wrong, though.

I cannot opine on value for money – I was taken here to lunch. First the good news: the Spanish sommelier was an enthusiast who really knew how to tune into what wine we liked and made an excellent recommendation. Thank you. The ambience is all black lacquer with touches of crimson – felt smart and oriental, and I liked the raised tables and banquettes too. Here's the rub: this is a much hyped place to come to eat and I was expecting quite a lot from the experience. My host and I opted for the prix fixe £30 lunchtime menu. As this was a menu that was presented to us, I hoped it would be a chance to taste the cuisine without crippling my host (who I think made up for that on the delicious wines ordered). The starter was fine, I thought, though less than a week later I have diificulty in recalling it. The main course I chose was chicken sliced over vegetables and lentils (I think they were lentils !). The chicken was RAW and served as such in spite of being sliced ! Well, sometimes things go wrong and I didn't want to be horrid, so I apologised but asked for it to be cooked through… when the Maitre D' brought it back to me he said words along the lines of: “The chef has now cooked it through but asked me to point out to you that it is our recipe to serve the chicken under-done”. What does that say for arrogance and lack of respect for the customer, how stupid do they think their customers are ? I have to say that I would have had words – rather than laughed and suggested they should read-up on Salmonella, but I was a guest, and I lunch with my host is not a frequent event, I did not wish to cause him any embarrasment and we had serious bonding to achieve, so I let it go. Actually, the food was wonderfully seasoned and tasted just right. We had a good time and we achieved what we needed to. However, Joel, please come in sometime to give the chef and Maitre who represent you in your establishment a real good kicking. Don't take your customers for ignorant fools and don't serve chicken raw (or call raw chicken “under-done”, and on purpose).

As this is a much reviewed restaurant, will restrict myself to brief comments on a very recent and much looked forward-to lunch. Go on bright days – makes the most of the atmosphere. Don't expect attentive service or uncramped surroundings. This is one of those “bustling” restaurants. Loos smell a bit once the ice in the urinals melts. My shared pasta starter was certainly home made, well cooked and authentic – but it was a bit bland (pasta, potato slices and pesto) and boring. Also, pasta can be cooked TOO “al dente”. My companion, who had made the choice, loved it so “you pays your money…”. My main course was worth the effort of travelling in London in the middle of the to taste. I had pork and foie gras sausages (2) with pearl barley and mushroom cooked as though this was a risotto. I just wish there had been more of the pearl barley to set-off the richness of the sausages. This was a cracking (in the Wallace and Grommit sense) dish. Overall, enjoyed the experience and may return but can't quite understand all the hype or the Squaremeal Editor's star rating.

My wife and I shared three meals here, Friday night dinner and two breakfasts.
The refurbishment of the fabric of the building has worked very well indeed (we liked our room too, for that reason), there is bare brick and there is exposed wood, but there is also a likeable openness and vibrancy about the place which is pleasing. By comparison with London, the food prices are very fair though the margin on the wines offered must (in my view) be large – which is not to decry the wines, rather the prices at which they are sold. We had a beetroot carpacio which my wife enjoyed, though she found it slightly sweeter than she would have preferred, followed by a risotto which she really did enjoy. I had started to wonder when our food would come after we'd been sitting for 45 minutes, at which point the two starters arrived with the explanation that the chef did not like the seared tuna nicoise he had first produced (as he felt he had overdone the tuna) and had started again, hence the delay plus apologies. It was worth the wait, as the version produced to me at the table was just right, both in cooking and flavour. Well done, chef ! The Tuna was was not only perfectly seared, but the portion was generous. This was followed in my case by a delicious piece of haddock, fresh and neither too small nor too generous, in the most delicicously light batter. The chunky chips were SUPER, crunchy outside, soft and melt in your mouth inside.
Where this restaurant, like the Hotel, lets itself down is attention to detail. In the hotel, that meant me reporting a non-funtioning blind and that receiving no atendion at all, an the towels in the bathroom being badly (BADLY) frayed. In the restaurant, both breakfasts were horribly understaffed, which led to tables being left dirty and unmade for new guests, unacceptable waits and every single cup I saw coming out of the washer with coffee grounds visible inside. The buffet was really quite sad -and expensive – so we gave that a miss. My wife asked for the multi-grain toast on the menu, but was given sad, standard brown toast. When she pointed out that there had been available the previous evening a wonderful, chewy, seed bread, our server immediately obtained a slice of that and toasted it – again, well done. Both mornings, I ordered a wonderful eggs florentine which was served hot, with eggs that retained runny yolks and which at £6.50 represented outstanding value. One other piece of praise, the young male manager in the evening showed genuine good will and enthusiasm, and was therefore a good person to have front of house. So there you have it, great setting, good food, expensive wine and a bit chaotic !

I think Sabrina's been too generous… I've lunched here twice recently (eg last week) and here's my lowdown. The ambiance is depressed by total absence of natural light – not a summer venue. The decor is fine, though, neither loud not too muted. The service is good, in that it's not evident, but not impressive either though dishes came when they were suppposed to and no mistakes were made. Last time, I had the burrata – I can't believe it was an Italian burrata because it was small, they only served half of it and it was tough and not the almost melt in your mouth, creamy, fresh cheese that distinhuishes burrata from similar cheeses. The previous time, I liked the duck rillettes though they were very rich. Bread was hearty and good. Last time I had the onglet steak – cheap cut which needs to be thinly sliced to help with the chewing. It was not good – tough even though not overcooked, and a very small portion. This time I had the baked cod over cous cous which was absolutely delightful, subtle, interesting flavour and texture. Shame there was only a mouthful on the plate. The wine list was a saving grace, though, with some decent wines at apparently very competitive prices. I like to bargain-spot and I am a fan of Priorat which is normally very expensive (just bought some from Enotria at £22 +/- per bottle, wholesale). This Priorat was on the menu for £26 and was a decent example of the style of wine from that area of Cataluna (sorry, no “til” available over the “n”). So, overall a good experience but one which could be vastly improved with little effort by just a bit more on the plate to complement was goes in the glass.

First of all: the ice-cream is great and the quality unchanged since I first started trying it when there was a Marine Ices outlet near Child's Hill in the 1960ies (could have been early 70ies).

This is about the food offering in Chalk Farm where my wife and I started taking our kids and their friends on birthdays in the mid-1980ies. Nothing seems to have changed from that date, through our occasional visits thereafter and to today. This is the sort of place that “does what it says on the tin”. The place itself is quite open-plan and there are very few soft furnishings, so while it looks uncluttered the place is loud and a lot of the people look a bit grim. The service is friendly, but not accomplished. The person who served us recently seemed to be learning on the job, but was saved by the fact that see seemed genuinely nice. We were hungry, early evening and neither of us had eaten since breakfast. We ordered the Melanzane to start – that Italian staple. We were both disappointed: no cheese at all, no Parmesan offered either. Just round slices of aubergine, baked in a ragu that looked as though it came from a bottle, with a little oregano. Anyone could have done at least as well at home. My main course of chicken Milanese with salad was much better as the chicken tasted great and the breadcrumb batter was light and cooked in new oil, not old. The accompanying zuchinni fritti were the best thing we ate, though my wife liked her paillard of chicken (in other words what I had minus the crumb batter) pronouncing it moist yet flavoursome. Price was fair, especially the house Sangiovese. So, a good local standby. Not going to wow anyone (in spite of the walls being covered with autographs from “celebs”), not memorable, but food made with what seemed like fresh and good quality ingredients at reasonable value. Won't rush back, but no doubt will go back at some point… when we want a local standby.

I've just seen the couple of negative recent reviews of Galvins and I thought I would weigh in.
I guess that since it opened, I have eaten at this Galvins (Baker Street) at least 10 times. The first time I ate here, the whole experience was marred by a French dwarf masquerading as a Maitre D': the worst of Gallic condescension… However, I had enjoyed the place itself and, indeed, the food – so I tried again. Given the absence of said dwarf, the second experience made me want to come back a third, and so on. The last time I ate here was late August on a Monday night when although the place was not full, it was busy. There were six of us, me, my wife, my two grown-up sons (one lawyer, one writer) and my in-laws who I had invited to celebrate their wedding anniversary. First and foremost, my mother-in-law (not the easiest of persons…) was super-indulged by the people serving us, though as usual she was being just a little hard to please. My father-in-law thought the service was elegant and efficient as well as friendly. Although the menu seemed to lack a little variety, the food was very correct, in the formal sense of achieving the standards it should and, if anything were lacking in that department, it was that apart from my dish (I think I had a cassoulet) it lacked a little “heart”. The Champagne was, of course, ridiculously priced but had to be bought. The other two bottles of white wine we had were from the “value” end of the list and really excellent both in absolute terms and for value for money. The atmosphere, as always, was smart and “buzzy” but the actual place relaxed. The bill for the six of us was under £300 including service, which given what we'd consumed was a pleasant surprise. So, don't be put off – in my view – this is a restaurant which while not for “every day”, is well worth visiting when you want a bit of authentic good cooking and a touch of glamour.

Last time my wife and I visited Assaggi, it was winter, dark and calm. This time, the weather in the evening was glorious and the place was HEAVING; it was a challenge to hold a conversation. The bare walls did not help in that regard. The welcome was very warm and I found the over the top familiarity of the person who seemed to be in charge quite amusing – but had I been with people I knew less well, it would have been a different story. In fact, the service was good overall. The food merely correct. I had an enjoyable burratta wrapped with a slice of grilled aubergine – simple and almost impossible to get wrong. My main course was a pasta with crab meat and a side salad. Again, hard to fault but hardly a cullinary challenge. One of our party left half “her” liver, though my wife enjoyed her plain grilled sea bass – again, hardly a challenge (see a pattern emerging here ?). The first decent red on the menu was a Planeta at £38, which must be a heady mark-up… the whites are better value but in my view miss out on some of the better Italian choices (from the North of Italy). We had no desserts and only a couple of mint teas. We were in good company and had a fun evening once the place quietened down a little (in volume). We enjoyed the interaction with the servers but having thought about it quite hard, I am driven to the conclusion that the food was no better than a lot of other Italian restaurants offer (which is, of course good), but at £50 per head (one bottle of one of the house whites, no pre-dinner drinks or bottled water)… sorry, but something's lacking.

I was invited to lunch here by a person I've known for some years and who I now regard as a friend and a person whose creativity, optimism and joie de vivre I admire. These are qualities which this branch of Nobu also reflects, I think. First the slight criticisms: the serving staff kept shouting in loud voices something which I thought must have been an institutionalised ralying cry – it was disruptive. Second, although a guest, this place IS expensive even if the high-quality ingredients and the sourcing dictate that this should be so. For the first time ever in my experience, the place was only half-full as well (is there a patern emerging here ? ). Now the strengths: wonderful, wonderful food – have not had better even in California where Japanese food has been taken to new levels (confession: I've not been to Japan yet). Great, informed, helpful service by people who seem genuinely interested in the food they serve and that the customers should have a positive experience. It was a sunny day, I had great company, discussed future plans and aspirations (in spite of the times we live in), had a wonderful dining experience, enjoyed the chablis my host chose (in glasses, it being lunchtime) and emerged feeling that the world is not such a bad place after all. Clearly the company had a lot to do with this, but I think that Nobu played its part as well. All the dishes we had were fresh, zingy, a joy to eat. If you go there, take advice from your server and go with the flow. Remember to check your bank balance first.

When I saw that in this quiet thoroughfare an organic, vegetarian Italian restaurant was planning to open… well I thought that this would be a short-lived venture. Having lunched here on an almost weekly basis since Amico Bio opened, my sincere wish is to be proved utterly wrong.
First, the food is delicious. It is fresh, simply cooked, imaginative, light and just so out of the ordinary; it really is a pleasure to eat. I recently for the first time also tried the wine (I try to go easy during the week…) and I can testify that the organic Sangiovese was quite impressive – especially after about 20 minutes when the bouquet and taste started to open. Second, the service is friendly, knowledgeable and genuinely keen to please. The chef is also clearly very committed to his craft with much of the more exotic ingeredients (sorry to show my lack of veggie credentials, but I had never even heard of “Seitan” before… its colour is pastel green, its consistency reminds me of mushrooms) sourced from the family in Naples. Third, the value for money is exceptional. An old friend (who is quite demanding in terms of food and drink) and I ate what was essentially a three course meal (two “starter” courses and a light “main”) with wine (see above) and service… for well under £30 per head. By the way, the zucchini fritti were, my friend declared, the best he had ever tasted. I say the same for the Arancini…
The drawback has so far been a slight lack of atmosphere which is partly a reflection on the newness of the business, and partly on what I perceive to be prejudice on the part of meat eaters to forego meat – but both my friend and I are meat eaters and we made no sacrifices in satisfaction to eat at this little gem of a place.