Nopi (21-22 Warwick Street, London, London, W1B 5NE) I had very high expectations of Nopi – but was slightly disappointed. We started on the wrong foot, as my dining companion and I were about 10 minutes early, and were simply sent away to come back at the right time – there was no room at the bar and, although some tables were free, we weren't offered a seat, even just to have a drink. The greeter was perfectly friendly, but it didn't exactly put me in the right frame of mind! However, once we were seated, things got better. The bread, which came with a spiced broad bean dip, was gorgeous – as was our waiter. It is hard not to think that Nopi is following in the Abercrombie & bFirch footsteps of only putting the beautiful people on show. The service was as lovely as the man serving – very charming, friendly and winning. The food was just downright delicious – they recommend 3 choices each, which I would heartily recommend, as the portions are not generous. But the flavours are spot on. We had an aubergine tart – the aubergines dried like tomatoes, with a very deep, almost sweet flavour, with some creamy mozzarella and fresh basil on a crisp pastry rectangle; broccoli with chilli (this was a revelation – the best, absolutely the best, broccoli I have ever eaten, with crispy chillies shredded on top); soft shell crab; trout; chicken with myrtle salt and a chilli dip; and braised pigs cheeks. The last was the least exciting – nothing wrong with the execution, taste or texture, but it was a bit like eating a large spoonful of casserole after a feast of much lighter, crisper textures and flavours. For pud we shared doughnuts – which were small and scrumptious, with a vanilla cream and berry dip; and coffee financiers (albeit in the shape of madeleines, not ingots) with a maple syrup dip. Both were gorgeous. A glass of wine each, and tap water, and the bill was about £60 a head – if you splashed out on the wine, or ordered a couple more dishes, you would rack the bill up without even noticing. The restaurant is a pleasant…
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Link to this review26 September 2011 | | Overall: | 8 |
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| Food and Drink: | 10 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 5 |
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| Value for Money: | 5 |
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Hix (66-70 Brewer Street, London, London, W1F 9UP) Such a good atmosphere at Hix Soho, and no demur from the waiting staff as we faffed about working out table we wanted to sit at. I like a banquette, but my dining companion doesn't, so for once I compromised and we sat where he wanted. Drinks came promptly (and this was after 3 delicious Hix Mix cocktails downstairs in the bar – and on a school night too…) with fresh, warm bread and salted butter. Again, the staff were charming when we couldn't decide what to have – because there were too many excellent combinations from the short-ish but well put-together menu. Oysters, with spiced sausages, then veal with sage butter? Steak tartare followed by a Hix take on fish fingers? Girolles, followed by one of the cuts of steak or veal that you are shown, set out on a wooden board, befrore you order? I went for the girolles and then fish fingers – a very sophisticated take on a tea-time treat. One was a straight fish finger, albeit with the kind of crisp crust that my kitchen could never produce. The other was a sort of deep-fried, battered piece of fish (gurnard, I think – but I had had 3 cocktails and a glass of fizz by then) inside fluffy mashed potato. Truly scrumptious. I could have ordered chips as well, but got side-tracked and didn't and just as well, as I was waddling out of the door as it was. My companion went for the oysters, then the sole with clams. Neither of us could manage a pud, or even coffee. The service was charming, friendly and unobtrusive, the wine topped up efficiently, and the whole experience, on a dull Monday evening, very very enjoyable.
Link to this review26 July 2011 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 9 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 9 |
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| Value for Money: | 9 |
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Murano (20 Queen Street, London, London, W1J 5PP) I lunched at Murano on a Saturday with a friend, for his birthday. It’s a beautiful room, with well-spaced tables and fantastic lighting. We sat at the top of the restaurant, with a view of the kitchen through a large window – when we arrived, they apologised to us for sitting us there, but we thought it one of the best tables – not least because we could see that Angela Hartnett was cooking that day, which we got very over-excited about. And we were right to be. It isn’t often you have a faultless dining experience, but this was truly it. The food was absolutely sublime – in particular the quail raviolo that I had as a starter. The little extra touches – the arancini and delicious salami that came before the first course; the intensely flavoured sorbets that came before pudding (special mention for the basil one); and the fantastic breads, all meant that this excelled any of the other Michelin starred restaurants I've eaten in in London – including the Square, which has been my favourite for some years. The service was very charming and I'd also like to specially commend the Sommelier, who gave us a great recommendation for a white, which was exactly the same price as the one we told him we were thinking of – a very tactful response, we thought. I’ll definitely be going back.
Link to this reviewJune 2011 | | Overall: | 10 |
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| Food and Drink: | 10 |
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| Service: | 10 |
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| Atmosphere: | 10 |
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| Value for Money: | 10 |
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The Gilbert Scott (St Pancras Renaissance London Hotel, Euston Road, London, London, NW1 2AR) I've read some of the other reviews on the Gilbert Scott, and absolutely agree that the tables are way too close together – my dining friend and I were seated in between two other tables, along a banquette, with the other diners as far away from us as if we had all been dining as a group of 6 people. Given the cost of the bill, and the lavishness of the room, I think it is a real pity that the ambience is spoiled like this. The food was very good – a special mention for the bacon olives, but again spoiled by some elementary mistakes. My dining friend ordered the rabbit and prawn pie, only to be told they didn't have it that evening. Then why not say so when we sat down? My ‘sole in coffins’ was two rolled sole fillets, with a creamy brown shrimp sauce, sitting on mash. Absolutely delicious, faultless seasoning and texture, but not the sole in crispy potato casings that the menu promised. I had a coffee, which was an excellent espresso, but didn't even come with a chocolate on the side. The service, however, was exemplary, even on a very busy evening. Red wine is left on the table, but white removed to ice buckets – if you are doing that, you have to have an efficient way of policing which glasses need topping up when, and the sommelier and his staff have that off to a fine art. So, a good evening, in an amazing building, but coloured by some silly mistakes – and, Marcus? If you read this – take out a couple of tables, please!
Link to this reviewJune 2011 | | Overall: | 6 |
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| Food and Drink: | 9 |
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| Service: | 10 |
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| Atmosphere: | 7 |
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| Value for Money: | 6 |
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Les Deux Salons (40-42 William IV Street, Strand, London, London, WC2N 4DD) Les Deux Salons is rapidly becoming one of my favourite places to eat, not least because of the charming service. What started out as a very quiet Tuesday evening (only two other tables occupied at 6.45pm) rapidly became buzzy and energised as the restaurant filled up. I started with a very well-made martini (dry, with a twist) and my friend with a margarita. She had my idea of food hell, a tomato and fennel salad (which she loved) and I had buttery and rich foie gras terrine, with a generous pile of toasted baguettines; then I had roast cod with peas, pea shoots, pancetta and cream (and chips – to cut the richness, you understand) and she had glazed duck and some of my chips. A carafe of wine each – viognier for me and rioja for her – and I do love the way that Les DS, and its sister restaurant Arbutus have almost all wines available by the carafe, solving the perennial white/red problem, when you don't want to sink a bottle each (it being a school night, you see) Then coffee and port for her and a rosewater and raspberry macaroon (which was a highlight, I have to say, being just sweet, tart, fragrant and melting enough) for me. Add to that a smiling, charming waiter and maitre'd and you have a very enjoyable evening. Especially for a Tuesday.
Link to this reviewMay 2011 | | Overall: | 8 |
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| Food and Drink: | 8 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 9 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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