Pearl at the Chancery Court (Renaissance London Chancery Court Hotel, 252 High Holborn, London, WC1V 7EN) Set Lunch – changes every so often – 3 courses £23, bottle water 75cl @ £4.75 (could have had tap if I wanted but went for the fizzy) + 12.5% service. This has come down. for the previous couple of years, as I have passed this establishment on the way to meetings, 3 courses were nearer £30. Credit crunch reducing turnover perhaps? Cut the price, get bums on seats, try to get the extras with drinks etc etc? The appetiser: No problem with the assorted homemade “crackers”, sesame, poppy and seaweed (this one left a little oil on the fingers) The dips, hummus – standard, beetroot, light and sweet, good contrast, smoked anchovy, a cross between brandade and taramasalata, the chopped capers nice touch. Presentation looked good, but the crispy crackers meant difficult to scoop out of the dimples of the long dish/plate. The bread: good crusty mini loaf, butter ok, hard enough to hold form, soft enough to spread. The little bread board?? The knife ok for the butter but not the bread. Tear and crumbs everywhere! The Starter: Hare Faggots, fondant turnip, truffled spatzle, chanterelles: Firstly, where the edge of the pan had been “wiped” to clean perhaps a dribble there was a remaining “smudge” very noticeable. 3 faggots but only 2 fondant turnip? Nice rich taste of the hare. Eat a faggot as a whole then fine, but if you cut, to sample with the other elements then a little “string” (was it caul?) Winter/golden chanterelles good but slightly over soft. I couldn't detect truffle in the spatzle and they didn't really add anything for me. Maybe crisper as mini beignet? I felt it needed perhaps an acid contrast. The game flavour of the hare was too softened by the butteryness of the turnip and sauce. A pickled walnut or two would add both acid and texture. Just to make it “dance”!? The main course: Pan fried Loin of cod, beans, leeks, mousseron, cockles: The piece of fish was superb. Excellent crust, great golden brown colour cooked just right so just opaque in the middle, the beans soft…
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Link to this review10 November 2011 |