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John's Reviews

John G.40s, Male, United Kingdom

Member since February 2011

Reviews written: 2 (1 voted helpful)

Hasn’t rated any restaurants this year.

Hasn't posted in the forum yet

The Capital (The Capital Hotel, 22-24 Basil Street, London, London, SW3 1AT)

Editor's pick

Capital is that strange beast, a Michelin starred restaurant within an hotel. Normally when you see this arrangement it is the restaurant hiding in the skirt folds of the hotel. With Capital, both the “mother ship” and the restaurant are so discrete you could easily miss them. We went simply because Heston Blumenthal's new pace round the corner nestling in the Mandarin Hotel's silken décolletage was booked out and we were looking for a lunch to remember without a booking.

We were also jean clad. Unlike any number of starred establishments this was absolutely no problem. They had a table (it was a quiet Saturday lunch time) and as far as I could tell were not remotely phased by my weekend stubble, jeans and T shirt. This isn’t something that you can say of some so-called fine dining restaurants.

The restaurant is really just a small dining room with I would guess maybe 15-20 tables and a small bar area. The atmosphere at lunch time was somewhat compromised by the clientele: a private banker trying to sell deranged investment products to a Chinese gentleman through an interpreter. He seemed to think that everyone needed his ill considered advice. I’d imagine that when full this kind of self aggrandisement would be drowned out by the general hubbub of conversation.

We ordered from the set lunch menu: £29.50 for three courses per person. Starters were either unchallenging (Waldorf salad twisted a bit and beautifully presented or a Lobster bisque) or out on the end of the spectrum (Snail vol-au-vents). I had the snails, my wife the twisted salad. She was perplexed by the salad, not recognising it as anything Waldorf like but generally liking it despite the strange disks of maybe turnip that it nestled upon. My snail vol-au-vent was instantly recognisable as a distant relative of Mr Blumenthal’s famous snail porridge: It had the same idea of layers of taste and texture, acidic salad, meaty molluscs and in this case replacing the risotto with a pastry case. It was very tasty… More

February 2011

Overall:9
Food and Drink:10
Service:10
Atmosphere:7
Value for Money:9
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L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (13-15 West Street, London, WC2H 9NE)

Editor's pick

I have visited Atelier Joel Robuchon on three occasions, more times than any other fine dining restaurant to date. It is to be found in what is effectively an alley way on the edge of Soho. The decor is decidedly dark: You sit on bar stools either at a bar behind which the food is prepared in an atmosphere of Zen-like calm or at high tables; either way they are black as are most things in the room. The welcome is Parisian: You are welcomed to the privilege of dining at Robuchon. Nothing is too much trouble, but things may take an effort. You need to go to this restaurant with the attitude of a European not an American: you will have a nice day, but you absolutely wouldn't ever say those words in this establishment.

Downstairs the menu is “Les Plats en Petits Portions Degustation”, a tasting menu/tapas concept. There are a 20 small tasting dishes to choose from ranging from the simplest Iberico ham with toasted tomato bread, through the consciously ironic (Le Burger), the foams and jellies of modern cuisine (Cauliflower Jelly and tomato coulis) to the most French thing since losing a war or the Eifel Tower (Quail stuffed with foie gras and truffled mash potato). Any four will more than suffice. The food is sublime with exquisite precision and beautifully balanced flavours. “Le Burger's” simple beauty literally reduced my wife to tears of joy, something for which one can only be eternally grateful.

Choosing wine is for many of us a blind stab in the dark based on price and perhaps vague familiarity. Our waitress turned it into an almost sexual experience. It was very like being served by Catherine Deneuvre: This is not a comment on her looks; it is her demeanour as she caresses each name and teases you with a languid description of the inner beauty of each wine with a polite and studied indifference to your obvious ignorance. On one visit my client left having had a memorable meal and, I think, just a little bit in love with our waitress.

The true measure of fine dining is… More

February 2011

Overall:10
Food and Drink:10
Service:10
Atmosphere:9
Value for Money:9
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