Helene Darroze at The Connaught (The Connaught Hotel, 16 Carlos Place, London, London, W1K 2AL) I ate lunch here today and found it almost faultless; from the first scallop to the last chocolate; it was wonderful. The restaurant is comfortable and would be oppulent even taking into account the Christmas decorations. It fulfils for me that essential addition to good food; I need to be able to hear the people I am with, and not be overheard by the next table. The food is clever without being too showy; and was – today at least – served quickly by attentive (but not pompous) staff. So everything came at the right temperature which ensured that it tasted as the Chef expected it to. And it was full of taste; scallops and meaty cepes – red Mullet – each perfect flake holding its own against a background of piquant rice, little squid perfectly cooked. Perhaps the sponge on my pineapple pud was a little on the heavy rather then heavenly side but – but who cares after the mains. With coffee and chocolates aplenty this is a kitchen that doesnt want its guests to leave hungry. This meal fulfiled my expections and more. Lovely.
Link to this reviewNovember 2008 |