Hugh's Reviews

The Lobster Pot in Kennington is lauded as a local institution and even before finally making my first visit last Saturday, I had heard and read a great deal about the quirky boat-themed interior, amusing sounds-of-the-sea soundtrack (long before Heston came up with the notion, it was being done here) and the supposedly very high quality of the seafood on offer served with pride by chef-patron Herve Regent. All were present and correct, it really is a charmingly eccentric set-up (ambience snobs would hate it; those of us with a sense of humour will embrace it as part of the experience) and attentive if occasionally remote staff add to the feeling of being in a place into a which a lot of thought has gone. What detracts from the experience, however, is the shockingly high prices for what is, to be kind, no more than a local, casual dining room. I know, having grown up by the sea and been brought up on seafood fresh from the morning's boats, that fish and shellfish of the quality served here doesn't come cheap, but come ON, Monsieur Regent: why no starters under £8.50 or mains – grilled chicken in this case – under £16.50? Sure these prices don't shock in the West End, or in local fine-diners such as Chez Bruce or Trinity, but this is Kennington, not Kensington, and for the bill to come to just over £100 for two courses for two and one bottle of wine is outrageous.

What did we eat? We started with the large seafood platter for two at £25.50, adding half a lobster for an additional £12.50, and it certainly was large, groaning with half a crab, five oysters, clams, winkles, whelks, clams, a huge langoustine and rather too many shrimps both pink and brown. The half a lobster was more like 3/8 of a lobster, lacking its claw which I thought cheeky, and was fine but unremarkable though in fairness I've always thought lobster over-rated. All of it was very good and undoubtedly super-fresh and certainly justified the price tag, but I felt that it was the only starter on the menu… More

I love J Sheekey like a member of my own family, so it made perfect sense to take another one, my mother, there for an indulgent Saturday night treat. It's one of very few restaurants I've eaten at with which I've never found any fault and this visit was no exception. From the top-hatted doorman at the entrance, through the warm welcome at reception, to the clubby banquette seating (and note – there's not a single ‘bad’ table in the place) and elegant napery and glassware, everything about the decor and ambience is just so. Service too is exquisite, the experienced, discrete and enthusiastic wait staff adopting a ‘nothing is too much trouble’ approach. As for the food, well that of course is the real star; it's one of the very best fish and seafood lists in town, always market fresh, beautifully-presented, adeptly seasoned and to be honest, not too hideously priced for this level of quality. Sure, prices soon mount up – ‘Ignore the prices,’ I said blithely to my normally frugal mother; she took me at my word and plumped for mixed roast shellfish at £39 – but for those on more of a budget there's plenty of relative bargains both for food and wine. The famous Fish Pie (I've had it before and its renown is justified) is just £13.50, about the price of a main course at Brown's across the road but with rather more cachet. Meat lovers might feel limited by the scant choice of non-fish dishes (though there are always two or three on offer) but to be honest coming to Sheekey's if you're not into fish is rather like going to a Grand Prix when you're not into motor racing.

The newly opened Oyster Bar has garnered some good reviews but for me the star attraction here will always be the beautiful, swish, inimitable restaurant. Mum loved it too and has hardly stopped talking about it; well, there's nothing like keeping it in the family!