Le Colombier (145 Dovehouse Street, London, London, SW3 6LB) This place is perfect for trysts with old friends. Truly French, yet with the atmosphere of a smart Chelsea ‘local’ – which is actually is. The only drawback is that you might well run into your youngest aunt lunching with someone more interesting than your uncle. The food is reliable French classics and although easy to categorise as unadventurous, why spend time puzzling out what you are going to eat instead of catching up on the latest gossip? The cooking delivers a fine punch. Last time I had a superb Dover Sole and a glass of Chablis from the exceedingly well-chosen the wine list. The conservatory at the front catches the sun and is perfectly tolerable as the road is a quiet one (and it's even fairly easy to park on the street), but I prefer the the main room as it's pleasantly light, even on a dull day, and warm and intimate at night. The service is experienced and exemplary. Indeed, it's a restaurant that gets nothing wrong.
Link to this reviewJuly 2010 |