Frank's Reviews

Head Chef Andy Cook presides over a supremely efficient and accomplished kitchen with the calm confidence of a five-star General. As someone who knew the former Grill well, I was curious to see whether the culinary standards would be maintained. They have been surpassed. I started with an old favourite, oeufs en cocotte (better than ever), and followed it by an outstanding braised halibut with curly kale, anchovies and fingerling potatoes in beurre blanc. Superb. The halibut was perfectly cooked, moist and succulent with the kale adding a judicious tang. I ended with a custard millefeuille with mango that was perfect in every respect. The patisserie was crisp, the custard exquisite and the mango of a flavour and consistency that impressed even someone who grew up in the tropics. The wine list is almost as good as in the old days although there aren't as many good bottles under fifty pounds as there used to be. One cannot simply blame inflation, so I recommend that the sommelier make a heartier effort. I also missed the old bound wine list that made such delightful reading. The current list is presented on a large card, which I found way below former standards although the selections were well described if a bit dumbed down for clients who should know their wines.

The staff is unflappable, wreathed with friendly smiles and overseen with great competence by the outstanding Restaurant Manager, David Carter. David deserves great credit for maintaining a touch of class while adding a spadeful of youthful enthusiasm. He is not just a manager but an impressario who can conjure the special occasion with a sense of theatre that is nevertheless filled with warmth and natural charm.

So much accomplishment must be accompanied by a suitable environment and this is sadly where the new Grill seriously disappoints. The decor is effective despite touches of the Gatwick Travelodge (lacquered walls) with a hint of the Holiday Inn in Dubai (sumptuously ugly light fixtures). There is a more… More

The room is one of considerable charm with a progressive 21st Century decor blending admirably with the wide spaces and carved chimneypieces of the 18th. The tables are well apart, which allows for private conversation, something rare and of great value in central London. There were only two members of staff waiting on tables, but they managed to attend to our every need quickly and with aplomb. I was accompanied by one of the world's most demanding grande dames, so this was no mean feat. The restaurant is a winner both in terms of the friendliness of the staff and the elegance of the space.

The cooking is less accomplished. Competence and good value but simple additions like a bit of salt and lemon might have made all the difference. Happily, it eschews the chili-obsessed cuisine of modern Britain. It was pleasant to leave a restaurant with one's mouth lining intact.

All in all, a great place. Highly recommended.