Foodess' Reviews

Min Jiang along with Nahm and a few others have been on my City Oriental list for some time. An evening table for 12 Jan 10 was reserved and speciality duck dish pre-ordered.

We arrived shivering and early with expectations of both an eye-ball and taste-bud treat. Starting with the most positive, we appreciated the mood set by London lights with the movement of traffic reminiscent of twinkling festive lights, so we didn’t feel too deprived of the daytime park scene. The décor was glossy with Oriental touches; loos were immaculate and equally glossy. With well-placed seating, most diners are able to have reasonable window views, so better planning than Rhodes 24.

Being so cold, I restively waited for my hot sake which arrived cold. The young waiter couldn’t resist saying (softly & wrongly) that I hadn’t requested hot, but as he swiftly scuttled away to rectify his mistake, I saw no need to challenge his ungraciousness.

As the food was served, it was nice to see alongside the usual cucumber and spring onion to go with duck and hoisin pancakes, the more interesting garlic paste, radish and tientsin cabbage accompaniments. Pancakes were the best textured, though I found it a bit odd that they were larger than the plates, and disappointing that not enough duck fat had been rendered down, resulting in barely crispy skin with a thick layer of soft fat beneath. Rice dishes and noodles were pretty good as was the tender chicken in sesame and chilli. This was all helped down by comforting Sake cosily kept in a hot water bath.

Service was a lottery from one very cheerful and helpful soul to the dour, but generally attentive. Overall sufficient positives justify returning, but this could in part be owing to the dearth of good Chinese restaurants on my patch.

Needing a spot to get a bite for lunch in the north west, we found Artigiano on this website and cross-checked elsewhere as Squaremeal reviewers were lacking in number. On a Winter’s day, with few punters, it was a little cold (both temperature and décor having lots of glass/light tiled floor and cool tones generally). But when busier, and especially at night, I am sure it turns into something more vibrant with LED’s adding colourful warmth to the atmosphere. Effort in styling achieved by not insignificant investment was evident. Significant effort was also evident from the generously plated fare in what I would describe as freshly prepared, unfrilled, and reasonably priced meals (wines likewise). All served with good spirit, it seemed to be a venue that has the hallmark of a sound neighbourhood eatery.

Chef Change (Nov 09)
Being a bit of a John Campbell disciple, I was curious to find out how Daniel Galmiche would fit into his shoes. He’d had a month to settle in so lunch was booked. Everything else seemed to be as it was before, décor styles leaving one slightly confused, but somehow mood was good. The new team performed well, and not only they were very accommodating, but the chef was also. A rather precise piece of cooking resulted in ubiquitous belly pork prepped a little differently with delicious accompaniments. An added punch of lime lifted flavours and proved a perfect foil for pork fat. Out of 4 courses, the only let down was the cheese which is rather needless given the fabulous indigenous ones that can easily be sourced. The inherited wine list, weighted towards US west coast on account of the owner having vineyards there, encourages a Californian choice. We asked Sommelier for one in our desired style and he delivered. All cooked courses pleased as a deft effort, I’m guessing heads for one star.

(May 09)
Last night we were in a side room purely for an evening of indulgence with 40 or so others. Each course was matched with Californian wine, some of which I would most certainly not have wanted to miss.

The meal began with a joyously rich and creamy mushroom cup topped with a succulent morel, more powerful than the cauliflower risotto served in a giant glass eye-bath which came next. Sadly, the cauli’ risotto failed to cope with the chunk of acidic jelly on top. Then spiced salmon and lentils, as described by SqM, was so blissful that I wanted to snatch it from the plates of others; the foie gras was highly rateable but each seemed so complete that they could have been two separate courses, especially with a tram-width gap between. I, and others, marvelled at the baby pig terrine which had been artistically crafted and presented in precise fashion with pea shoots and vibrant pickled bits doing an elegant tango on the plate and in the mouth. Toothsome beef… More

Not just reviewers stirred my interest, but I have a penchant for western Med style food, so Aqua Nueva was on my list of must try’s. Saturday a.m. I read the intro. on this website which got my mouth watering, so with optimism I requested a reservation for the same evening. My luck was in, so hoped it would last. I wish I could say ‘it did’, but instead we found the experience weighted towards style rather than substance. As everyone else has mentioned the extravagant setting, I need not repeat. An army of pretty females to greet and wait upon us were pleasant and efficient enough. One of the few male waiters evidently found both product knowledge and manners a challenge, but fortunately tended our table once only. I enjoyed the lobster starter, but thought it needed another taste dimension such as a squeeze of lemon, however that could be me being picky. The Iberico ham and tomato bread was as good as we’d enjoyed in Barcelona. Oxtail was very good but desperately needed a jus or more than the teaspoon of pumpkin puree that was supposed to be the main accompaniment, a decent portion of which would have emphasised great partnering.
Both being somewhat uninspired by the food, we decided to quit at this point and settled the reasonably priced bill feeling that the venue fascinates more than the food.

Why oh why have I not kept up to speed with Danesfield House – ten minutes from my home. My excuse for missing the chef change even if it was published in Marlow’s paper is that it’s not circulated in my locality.

A few years ago, we persevered with both the Oak Room and the Brasserie only to conclude that local competition was better. I recently discovered that a Welsh chef had taken over the Oak Room and what a revelation! The best meal I can recall in a long time including 2* michelin. The intermediaries i.e. 2 different amuse bouche and a pre-dessert were so refreshing, elegant and interesting that not only I but my other half was also wowed. I was in heaven from the minute I had a jelly and granita cocktail of cleverly combined grapefruit and vodka through to a sublime partridge boudin with langoustine and alba truffle starter followed by a sensational main course. Chicken and duck dishes served to my partner were also inclined towards the exquisite and I would have been happy with any of our choices.

As I’d ordered braised Oxtail for main I was hoping for an intensely rich Tuscan wine which to my delight (and his also) my partner agreed to order. Cheeses of local/European origins were fantastic but a dessert, though pretty good, failed to eclipse previous courses.

The two staff who served us throughout the evening were utterly delightful and saved the hushed atmosphere from sterility on a quiet Tues eve (the only possible downside). The Anoushka ‘touch on the trad décor was also a relief from a few years back. Not only was taste at the forefront of the experience but textures and presentation were equally important. The Oak Room is definitely worth a detour, but luckily it’s on my doorstep.

Since last visit, it looks like they’ve upgraded the décor. It remains a traditionally styled property on a Thames backwater, softly lit up at night so waterside views can still be enjoyed during an evening meal.

A few goodies already awaited us beside the fish orientated canapé , bread and amuse bouche that were to come, so restraint was needed as I considered ordering half a lobster and half a duck. My starter was accomplished if sauce flavour was lacking depth, though wafer thin pasta and forkfuls of succulent lobster countered this. My partner’s stuffed quail was good but less flavourful than hoped. He was, however, totally satisfied with the other half of my duck, carved at tableside. Extensive wine list has prices extending to the stratospheric. Pre-ordained veg didn’t quite fit with roast duck, gravy plus trimmings, especially the dauphinoise that virtually disintegrated. Mash , or even plain boiled would have sufficed, especially as a dairy enhanced side of cauliflower was also served. Needless to say, we couldn’t look at the dessert menu, but petit-fours were just too good to resist.

Almost all was more or less as it should be and Canard L’anglaise, is sooo worth ordering. Quite costly for non-michelin, I think mainly because generous servings of some rather expensive ingredients including fine cuts of beef, king of the soles and foie gras which features in many dishes. A serious number of knowledgeable staff unobtrusively attend and are ready to help, so I guess that’s another reason. Very relaxing evening assisted by the tranquil setting………looking forward to further samplings.

Ventnor is not the most beautiful resort, but up and away from the brash seafront, in contrast sits the Hambrough where the cooking goes hand in hand with the elevated position. Highly pleasant muted designer surroundings are harmonised from exterior through to well appointed rooms, where an Espresso machine could be the highlight for some.

Aside from Square Meal, Good Food Guide and Michelin accolades, upon sampling, it is easy to understand why the food has to be the most exciting on the island. A pretty good wine choice was usefully categorised by style. Helpful and fairly knowledgeable staff were friendly, which seemed to accord with the island atmosphere.

They seem to be forging not just a good local reputation but probably a wider foodie one too. Little to add to the succinct food comments of previous reviewer except to rate the full English breakfast as one of the best.

All done with restrained panache, the delightful Robert T and his team deserve to flourish as The Hambrough seems set to leave the competition in its wake.

Monday lunchtime was rather vibrant with quite a cross-section of society soaking up the atmosphere. We were offered, and accepted seats at the bar rather than waiting an hour for a table. Enjoyed the whole experience including comforting bowls of pasta served by characterful staff. Plus we didn’t go away with a big hole in the wallet.