Foodess' Reviews

I like Modern British Cooking especially when delivered with a flair and elegance which out-classes the snobbishly French fashion of over-stylised cuisine that perhaps a few too many Brits have adopted in the past. Even better when it is served within the walls of an under-stated country establishment, where you can relax in the company of good friends.

We ate carefully spiced and precisely balanced ingredients which had been confidently put together to correlate agreeably. Beetroot amuse bouche had just sufficient spicy heat and cumin fragrance to complement the sweet beet’ puree, which stood up to the topping of smoked eel cream that actually resembled the texture of pate. Breads were perfectly soft and warm. Who would have thought of putting lobster with dahl – I am so glad they did. A risotto had a dense rich woodiness from chestnuts and English, yes English, truffle with a piquancy coming from the cheese. Scallops, my sister-in-law told us, were cooked to perfection and arranged within a neatly colourful pea and chorizo surround. I tried to quell excitement in anticipation of the main event. Delicately steamed turbot sat above chicken and vegetable broth, which only just failed to eclipse the outstanding performance by the Pembrokeshire lobster and spiced creamy lentils. Venison was a triumph cooked exactly to order that brought satisfying smiles to those dining at our table.

A pre-dessert was a sensational take on boiled egg with soldiers. I won’t give the game away completely….but it is worth ordering dessert just for this. If you like silky textures and mango, you will love this. Dessert was of course, impeccably produced, and like everything else was assembled to a clean, modern and modest style, where the palate gets the best deal.

At the risk of almost never finishing this comment, comfort, atmosphere, service, and wine are quite deserving of mention, but it is obvious where the emphasis is, and should be.

Unspeakably good! Need I say, the sort of food that… More

I'd always considered Ryan a Great British Chef having dined at his restaurants dozens of times (Liam, sous chef and business partner can handle the pass too…you can watch them at work through the window they have fitted between ‘The Room’ and kitchen). My scores say it all. They have turned this pub/restuarant around and are now steadily and confidently striding back up to the usual high standard. It is only a matter of time before a Michelin star is re-gained. Weekends are regularly packed with punters. The ever evolving menus have changed since the Squaremeal review, e.g. no Muntjac Burger with TCC's anymore. Definitely one to watch!

Oh so very Ascot – a bit too much style minus substance perhaps? Refreshingly it was not. John Campbell’s Dining Room exudes sophistication as does the remainder of the building and I am sure the food there will too (we were well acquainted with his culinary style at the Vineyard). The separate Barn eatery is rustic yet refined all at the same time and the surrounding structures are handsome too and of the same brick. We used to live a few miles from here and the area has been woefully missing something special in the food line and I believe that at long last it’s arrived…..but it delivers a whole deal more.

When I rang, the restaurant reservation lady was very informative and accommodating as we sought casual early dining and bookings looked full, but she asked me to hold while she rang the chef, whilst I prepared to choose another day, but luck was with us provided we could eat early. From the moment we drove through the gates it was quite evident that all staff we encountered had had first class training. Nothing was lacking and our whole experience was seamless and comfortably paced. The glazed frontage to the Barn overlooks beautiful ‘poloesque’ parkland adding to the appeal of the spacious dining area and first floor bar, whilst the open galley-style kitchen enhances the atmosphere.

On to the menu in the Barn which is ingredients led with a shot of innovation. Oxtail broth was densely flavoured, laced with pearl barley, carrots, leeks, turnips and a “chutney” which had thyme-like pungency that stood up to the broth and chunky oxtail pieces so very well. The white onion soup with cider was just as flavourful served with brioche. We asked about the fish and chips and being advised it was special, I hoped we weren’t being sold something which might disappoint. It exceeded expectations in every way, served with a pot of tartare sauce alongside a pot of textured pea puree. I hate communal S & P bowls – none in sight here, but on our individual serving boards were two… More

Already knowing how good Brett Graham’s kitchen skills are, we were unsure of this coupling with the disfavoured (for us ) Mike Robinson of Pot Kiln where our meal was quite below par. So after a few attempts to book a table (demand always a good sign) we were about to find out whose influence was the stronger.
What we ate and drank :

Rabbit & Prune Faggot – Satisfyingly flavourful
Venison Scotch Egg – “Pie hot” with runny yolk
Sea Bream & shrimps, roasted tomatoes, long slivers of runner bean & saffron potatoes – Excellent combination and great textures Roast venison, mushrooms & remoulade – Divine flavours and meltingly tender
Sticky Toffee Dessert of date ice cream & brown bread wafers & sticky toffee – Purrfect End

New World Pinot Noir – good quality and reasonably priced

Reading between the lines, it appeared that Harwood could have been at risk of becoming a victim of its own success if the neg-reviews are accurate, and if that was the case, then it has dramatically pulled things back. We liked everything about this place including the service – the subject of most complaints. The Antipodean touch has triumphed again and maybe we should have been comforted at the thought that a Graham-mentored man was at the helm. However, perhaps Mr Robinson is the one who should be given credit for including so much wonderful game on the menu.

W8 is refreshingly kitted out with a tad more interest than the formulaically bland décor of high end gastro-destinations. However, the hope was that the food would still do the talking. The attraction is the influence of high pedigree craftsman Phil Howard, but how would his recent protégé’ interpret cuisine on this appealing menu?

A simple looking plate of partridge ravioli with ceps served on melted onions was a well accomplished, delicious opener and I’d have happily eaten this as a main. My better half didn’t consume with quite such gusto, although his plate was void of remains. Rich, dark ox cheek perfectly soft was served with contrasting flat iron (my knowledge of meat cuts didn’t extend to this terminology, so somewhere around the shoulder was indicated). This was presented pink, properly rested and thinly sliced without a trace of blood, being essential as it rested beneath a superb quenelle of horseradish cream. Separately came the most comforting gravy like sauce to accompany the cheek which sat upon cabbage. Grouse, described as “slightly gamey” was somewhat more powerful, and this factor combined with the acidity of choucroute, meant that the dish required a carb’ other than the beetroot puree which was an inadequate counterbalance. (We obviously had the French perspective of slightly gamey as later another waiter used the adjective “very”, illustrating the dichotomy in staff opinions.) My partner didn’t grumble at all as I reneged on the deal of a swop half-way. Exchanging again after only a few mouthfuls, I was so pleased to be reunited with my gently yielding pieces of ox and…..that sauce.

Dry wit from our waitress who was polite and knowledgeable was more than one could ask for. The sommelier recommended a sensibly priced Lombardy wine which delivered exactly as described and worked well with our choices. I can almost forgive them for not completely removing strings from the runner beans as the thin chips were spot on texturally and properly seasoned… More

Comfort – good. Sedate – definitely not. But with “Crazy” in the name would one really expect a calm atmosphere? The quirky, miscellaneous décor is exceedingly busy and music was not background, though in no way did it interfere with our conversation. Having dined in the Thai section previously concluding that it was not good enough to repeat, it was time to visit the English restaurant, enticed in knowing that they now breed their own livestock and fowl.

Being a hotel, food in some form or another is served all day, so there is a lot to read. Even skipping breakfast list and lunch, appetisers will be found, followed by salads or starters and an extensive main course list, making it impossible to take in desserts til later. From a promising start for all four of us, we happily munched on Tuna tartare, an excellent classic French onion soup and equally good chicken liver salad with fabulous bacon pieces from home reared Gloucester’s with super fresh salad and a perfectly poached egg. Two bottles of Douro were excellent. Onwards to two different pies and a mixed grill of pork meats, and this is where discontentment set in. Three different complaints about pies, one having bacon to chicken ratio out of kilter; one with bone and some gristle and then the beef cheek not having been cooked down properly, so though it was soft it was also chewy. Dry pork chop and a cement-like rosti didn’t please one guest, but side orders were cooked correctly and most impressive of all, the tender young broad beans were devoid of skins.

Service, whilst pleasant and attentive enough, distinctly lacked knowledge. Good ingredients were used but sadly the treatment didn’t afford them justice, which is a shame because the prices are definitely City.

A sudden change of plan brought us to this stunning part of Sussex. Period buildings naturally occupy beauty spots and this was no exception where we discovered an unpretentious statement of grand with the utmost comfort and warmth. The other surprise was to find ourselves dining at Camellia as The Pass wasn’t open for lunch.

Though intricately ornate and heavily oaked décor is not normally my style, I loved the way this place had been restored. Sensitive modern tweaks subtley augmented without tarnishing the period feel. We were first led to a classically styled lounge decked with hand-studded chesterfields and chandeliers, but this wasn’t sufficient to distract me from the sandwich selection being delivered nearby tempting me to ask for ‘a plate of the same please’, but our table was already waiting and we were soon shown through to the comfortably furnished dining room.

Quite an array of choices faced us, but I soon decided that it was a fish day. Duck with marmite soldiers was a novel idea, no twist except for presentation in a terracotta egg box; not my choice but apparently it was good, followed by fillet steak, also classified ‘good’. I enjoyed crab croquette with tempura squid and a sticky chilli dipping sauce. But, what came next for me was a refined example of bouillabaisse with cavernous depth of luxurious flavour put with unlikely but fabulous cajan gnocchi, and the obligatory gruyere croutons and rouille weren’t overlooked – I have had fish stews/soups around mainland Europe and closer to home, but this was in a class of its own. Also on offer was chicken chasseur, various cuts of grilled meats, fishcakes, home-smoked haddock or sausage and mash plus a few lighter options.

Everything about this place was substantial from the structure, giant heavy crockery and wooden serving boards to the portions served. Service was impeccable whilst relaxed, and our waiter provided some characterful input which made the experience all the more enjoyable. We asked to see… More

It’s so easy to pop into a Mr C’s not just because they are ubiquitous, but also because they’re open all hours….well nearly. This branch is definitely not chosen for good location and like Windsor, the cooking had historically been reasonably good, but the standard does vary, and especially from branch to branch. So my advice is avoid a cooked meal and stick to the cold combinations such as Foccacia with Prosciutto and marinated peppers or something equally as straightforward, but I’d hesitate to venture beyond the Insalate. I don’t like to knock that rotund man’s chain, but it is possible to get simple food wrong and it seems they’re becoming more capable of doing just that, though I would refuse to leave without making a purchase from the deli.