Apsleys looks fabulous after its refurb, with three enormous chandeliers hanging from the central glass atrium and plush seating all around. Tables are well spaced and discreet, whilst the raised outer parts of the restaurant provide good people watching.

I was disappointed by the rather plain menu, but then Italian ones often are. I felt the surroundings justified a more creative Michelin-style extravagent menu. As it happened my desired dishes were on their remarkably good value £24 three course dinner menu. We both plumped for that and loved it. My starter of poached egg and parmesan over an asparagus salad was delicious, although my main of gnocchi was a little plain. This was more than made up for by an excellent chocolate mousse with coffee sorbet.

Service was superb throughout and the staff looked great in their rather cool uniforms. The only clanger was the ultimate sin-of-sins…..My credit card was brought to me to sign, which seemed odd in these days of PINs. The reason being that they were leaving a prominent space for me to insert a tip, after been charged a full 15% already. Naughty boys.