have to agree with the last reviewer. I would expect a restaurant to have an off day, so perhaps my really quite lovely experience will need to be tested for consistency, but it's hard to fault such a thoughtful, friendly, creative and deliciously simple experience.

Why do we all want ‘authentic’ this and that? Why not just concede that British – and Scottish – combine a complex mix of cultures, history and evolving ingredients, ever changing!

Which is why I love the fluffy, smooth update on what was obviously a staple fisherman recipe – the Cullen Skink. Or the stunning sausage board which boasts so confidently a variety of the best British bangers. I am going to go out on a limb and even stake a British claim to the sublime macaroni cheese they served up on the set menu – note the fantastic British cheeses out there. My partner's venison dish was equally sumptuous.

And when this gorgeous guy came out to recommend the best whiskies to top off the evening, I thought: this is cool Britannia – deeply founded in our domestic and world experience, beautifully conceived and stunningly executed.

Let's shout about it! Well done Albannach!