Terroirs is a funky take on the classic Parisian natural wine bar (the sort of wine bar that offers artisan wines straight from the domaine). It is dominated by its curved zinc bar one end of which looks on to a tiny galley kitchen out of which emerges all manner of delicious snacks and tapas dishes. The charcuterie is superb – chunky, pistachio-studded pork terrine, rosmarino, a fatty, rosemary-scented pate from Tuscany, and various Pyrenean sausages and hams amongst other piggy nuggets. The range of plates includes meaty smoked eel with crunchy celeric remoulade, a decadent dish of blobs of bone marrow on truffle-brushed tartine, potted brown shrimps and steak tartare. Five plats du jour usually number bavette, or choucroute, and assorted meaty bistro classics. Last time I went I had a fantastic black bream with baby squid and piquillo peppers whilst my partner enjoyed pot roasted quail. The dishes are served without frills. The wine list is a revelation and pretty unique for London, being about 250 bins of organic and biodynamic wines and some smashing eaux de vie – as I have found to my cost! Plenty of choice by the glass (and the classic pot lyonnais) make it an ideal place to mix and match with the various dishes one might order. The quirky tasting notes are a nice touch. Service is generally with a smile, although Gallic insouciance occasionally manifests itself as carelessness. But Terroirs has the vibe of a place where people enjoy themselves and are happy either to go simply for a glass of wine and a single dish, or, to use a Damon Runyon expression, somewhere to “commit eating” in a more gourmandising way. All in all a little treasure in central London.