The combination of such extravagance led wording as ‘duck’, ‘foie gras’ and ‘truffle’ is too naughty to ignore. To catalogue them as part of the same dish is in fact rather nonsensical. Who wouldn’t choose it?

Jérôme Ponchelle’s ‘Ravioli of duck foie gras with leeks and black truffle’ sits brashly on The Capital’s 40th Anniversary menu (Dégustation Menu), which brings together classic dishes from distinguished chefs throughout its 40-year history.

A hotel and restaurant to neighbouring Harrods, The Capital celebrates a landmark year. The thick, coral and black carpeting in the entrance has the well-trodden characteristics of a starry past while glassy panelling and burnished fittings completes the typically stylish decor you’d expect to see in Knightsbridge.

The dining room is a little set in the past but nevertheless lavish and well cushioned. It’s a room in which people make an effort: ladies put on their heels and lippy and men splash themselves with eau de toilette.

Ponchelle (formally of Wiltons and The Connaught) took over from fellow French chef Eric Chavot in late 2009. The Frenchman’s philosophy to cooking is simple: “I believe it is important not to overwork a dish and to let the product’s own glory come to the fore.” His duck foie gras packed into fluffy ravioli parcels is an exemplification of this, expertly crafting powerful textures and surging with flavour.

Unfortunately, in 2009, The Capital lost both Michelin stars it held, a year in which it shared the accolade with such venues as Le Gavroche, The Square, Pied a Terre and Petrus.

Chavot’s mark is left on the celebratory menu however with his ‘Seared scallop with asparagus velouté’ (Chavot & Richard Hondier (2000’s)), in which a plump, crisp-topped, marshmallow-of-a-scallop sits neatly in a pea green velouté, finished with a single strip of Parmigiano.

Sommelier Julia Reynals paired the scallop with Levin Sauvignon Blanc 2006, perhaps no mistake as it originates from owner David Levin’s personal… More