I have a system when I sit down in a restaurant. On being handed a menu I first look at the choices of main course. Based on that decision I then chose something complimentary to start and an appropriate drink. This system has served me well for the last 30 years. The only time it comes off the rails is on the very rare occasion that I can’t choose a main course.

This is what happened on my last visit to Andrew Edmunds. The choices on the daily menu on that particular day all sounded amazing. In a way I would have been happier if the staff had chosen at random and delivered their offering as a surprise.

In the end I opted for the scallops ceviche to start and the gnocchi for a main course with a beautiful and reasonable priced bottle of St Aubin. It was a delicious meal. I loved my starter; it was full of small scallops with mixed leaves and a refreshing sauce. Main course was just as good with a wonderful tomato and ricotta sauce. My only criticism of the entire night was that the base on my treacle tart was slightly (and I do mean slightly) too thick. I washed it down with the nicest bottle of Tokaji ever.

As for the service, well, it was as brilliant as the meal. I have been going to Andrew Edmunds since the early 90’s and it is consistently excellent. I can think of few London restaurants that can deliver this level of satisfaction.