Last visit Dec 2008

I have to agree with Ms Macaroon that the food is not the only draw to Locanda. On my first visit Mr Locatelli made his way around the shop floor ensuring that he paid each table attention and made them feel special. He didn't even balk when my colleague pulled out his latest book and asked him to sign it. It's so nice to visit a place where the chef is so much in evidence and not just a name above the door.

The food is divine and the pasta an absolute must. On my last visit I had a chestnut ravioli which just melted in the mouth and was so light that I even had room left for pudding and cheese. I am a big cheese fan so it is always a test of a restaurant how good the cheese board is. I was not disappointed. I was presented with a plate of cheese sorted in order of strength and to match some mini jars of honey, again sorted by strength. A little fiddly I have to confess but it really worked.

The sommelier was very helpful so the wine choices we had were wonderful and the front of house staff were slick but friendly. The decor is modern, elegant and stylish without seeming dauntingly trendy. There are definitely some tables that are better than others – on my last visit we were siting in a booth in the centre of the restaurant which gave a great vantage point (even if getting out to the loos was a bit tricky). On my first visit we were on a table by the door which was a little high traffic and draughty.

I was fortunate enough not to be picking up the bill on this visit but I get a sneaky feeling that it wasn't cheap but then for that kind of quality and expertise in cooking it would be a crying shame not to reward the effort.

The only criticism that I would have is that the restaurant is so subtle that I nearly walked straight past it. A word to those who plan to visit – look hard for the signage, I didn't really notice it till I was through the door.