The latest addition to the dynamic, multi-faceted St James Theatre complex, this first-floor restaurant is reached via a lavish spiral staircase appropriately sculpted from six tonnes of white Carrara marble – and it’s open to allcomers. Monochrome photos of stage stars line the walls of the dining room and the seasonally inclined, European menu picks up on the theatrical theme: starters (‘act one’) might feature char-grilled marinated squid salad or pressed rabbit terrine, while desserts (‘finale’) could usher in the likes of lemon pannacotta with lemon curd, blackberries and chocolate. In between, mains (‘act two’) might range from confit duck with cannellini bean cassoulet, to spatchock chicken with tarragon velouté, or an open lasagne of wild mushrooms with saffron pecorino sauce. To drink, a concise list of international wines is bolstered by a fistful of world beers.