Once rougher than a Saturday night stramash in the gritty city it references, The Dundee Arms has been salvaged by the crew behind The Empress (Victoria Park) and The Crooked Billet (Clapton). Many original elements such as the wooden bar and glazed tiles have been retained, to produce a sympathetic, restrained reinterpretation of a Victorian taproom. Although raclette, spring onion and truffle oil toastie (£5.50, the only hot snack) is hardly an old Bethnal Green tradition, the fine draught beers do represent the best of what’s brewing in the new East End. Truman’s Zephyr, Redchurch’s Shoreditch Blonde and Five Points Pale were present on our visit, alongside good stuff from Redwell of Norwich. Four wines from £16, Dominio de Tharsys’ Natural Cava (£7.50), Long Island Iced Tea cocktails, a suntrap backyard, and DJs spinning raw-edged retro rock and soul – all provide further reason to toast The Dundee’s deliverance.