L'Absinthe

MARCH 2011 I'm updating my review from one year ago (below). I'm slightly sad that there have been no reviews since that date. However, for once, I totally agree with the Squaremeal description of the restaurant, which I think is more or less spot-on. Primrose Hill is lucky to have this soi-disant “bistro du coin”. As such is totally meets the description as well as being authentically gallic. I recently took my wife, two sons and their long-term girlfriends there to celebrate the youngest's 27th birthday. Everyone was in a good mood and the whole evening complemented it, from the well executed Cote de Beuf which two people shared, to the more usual staples (see below). My wife had salmon on a bed of carrotts and leeks which she enjoyed and I had the boeuf bourgignon which, while setting no trends or being worthy of paroxyms of praise, “did what it said on the tin”. The wine which was at the cheaper end of the list did not disappoint and the service was as usual familiar, warm, humourous and endearing. MARCH 2010: My wife and I live locally and we have been here a number of times. Initially, I felt that the food did not match the good idea regarding the way wines are priced. Nominally, the wines have uplifts of £5, £10 and £15 over the retail price depending on quality. I have to say that I'm not sure that the uplift is on the wholesale prices (go compare with wholesale equivalents)… but still results in a reasonable outcome. The food is fine, not great, French bistro food. The Cassoulet being my own favourite, though purists might think that it is not fatty enough (which is a plus for me !). Where this restaurant scores heavily is with the staff who are authentically Gallic, but not of the snotty variety, and the atmosphere which is normally really quite busy (in a nice way) and warm (in a spiritual way). This is the sort of place where friends can meet, drink, argue, debate, laugh and – possibly – celebrity spot. It has stood the test of time (which the White Truffle and other predecessors on the site have not) and I suspect that it will continue to be one of those pleasant and unpretentious, accessible sort of places for some time to come.

Been a couple of times now. Service always great, very welcoming & attentive. Food is average. Traditional french onion soup was nice, desserts not great. My friends' ordered a pear tart that wasn't thoroughly cooked so they sent them back. On a previous visit I ordered tarte tatin and the taste was a bit bitter, as though the sugar had been burnt. A real celebrity hotspot, we saw 4 big names in one night! A real hidden gem, very romantic & cosy, would be perfect if the cooking standard was a bit higher.

I have been to L'Absinthe twice with friends and in both occasions food, drink and service excelled. Not only were all of our dishes perfectly cooked and presented (and please bear in mind I lived in France for a period of time and I'm extremely picky with my food!), but the attention to detail – i.e. help in chosing your wine only after you have ordered your food and not being necessarilly offered the most expensive bottle on the menu – is one of the best I have experienced in London so far.

A restaurant that offers wines no more than £10 or £15 above the retail price? The owner is clearly mad! Well worth the trip – the owner and front of house apparently used to work with Marco Pierre White, some of that madness has clearly rubbed off on him, he’s a wonderfully exuberant and passionate man. The atmosphere is lively, buzzy and very relaxed. The food, steak and chips with a bearnaise sauce, was terrific, full of flavour and barely requiring a knife. The wine list is great and offers the opportunity to drink some wines that most of us admire on a wine list before moving on to something a little less “heavy” on the pocket. Exactly the kind of local restaurant that should and deserves to succeed.