Judging by the recent proliferation of upmarket steakhouses, it seems that Londoners can’t get enough slabs of beefy protein. But not every day can be Wagyu day, which is where Black & Blue comes in. This mainstream chain makes steak & chips an affordable luxury, serving its British cuts & burgers without fuss or frippery. For impromptu dates or dinners, that’s a good thing. But is it really ‘special enough’? Has it ‘taken its eye off the ball’? The smart-casual concept is starting showing its age a tad – the likes of rocket & parmesan salad, chicken breast with pesto & New York cheesecake just don’t set the pulse racing – but B&B is still a fair shout for a quick burger or steak washed down with a bottle from the something-for-everyone wine list.