Readers who bemoaned the demise of the highly regarded British Larder should raise a cheer for its successor – the jauntily named Unruly Pig. Inside, this 16th-century Suffolk inn has been fitted out in country-chic style with prints on the walls, logs stacked in the inglenook and patterned rugs strewn over the wooden floors. Gussied-up pub food with strong Italian overtones and a liking for seasonal ingredients is the order of the day, so expect anything from seared octopus with spicy sausage purée, apple and fennel to pork T-bone with ‘unruly’ macaroni cheese, buttered cod with crab and cockle risotto or ox cheek ragù with tagliatelle and wild garlic pesto. A ‘closed-oven’ Inka grill does the business when it comes to steaks and burgers, while desserts could bring almond and Amaretto cake with Mascarpone cream and coffee gel. Grazing nibbles, East Anglian ales, cocktails, kids’ deals and a racy wine list complete the package at this perky all-rounder.