Jikoni

Jikoni’s dusty pink awnings, patterned textiles and floral tablecloths have proven to be a perfect fit in Marylebone Village, slotting in nicely in this curated, boutiquey part of London. There’s a warmth and energy that extends from Ravinder Bhogal and through her team - stepping through the entrance curtain into Jikoni really does feel like entering her home, and her free-spirited approach to flavours does have a ‘dinner at an insanely talented friend’s house’ sort of vibe.

The dining room manages to stay away from being too cutesy and kitsch, but it still has plenty of Instagram potential. White walls and marble tabletops keep things smart, but everything else feels like home, right down to the abundance of scatter cushions spread over bench seating, and soft fabric lampshades that cast gentle light across the room.

Jikoni means ‘kitchen’ in Swahili, and Bhogal’s east African-cum-Indian-cum-British heritage is reflected in a menu that infuses comforting Brit classics with exotic spices. Witness her take on the Scotch egg – a Jikoni signature that sees soft, gooey quail’s egg wrapped in a prawn toast mix, served with banana ketchup.

A generous plate of charred Brussels sprouts arrived under a hot and sour dressing and a big handful of bonito flakes; hot, sour, sweet, with some umami fish funk, it’s a very well-judged dish that we’d eat twice over. Likewise a larger bowl of gently-poached scallops with congee, turmeric and lemongrass was a warm, comforting hug in a bowl that we finished with ease.

Jikoni often nails the flavours, but not everything is so well-executed in terms of technique. A delicious woodland mushroom vol-au-vent with saffron cream was slightly marred by tough puff pastry, for example. Likewise, a good apple and blackberry roulade felt a little heavy on cream and light on meringue - a subjective point perhaps.

The restaurant remains wonderful in its idiosyncrasies, and it’s a lovely place to enjoy dinner and an excellent cocktail - we recommend the pomegranate and fig leaf negroni.

Born in Kenya to Indian parents, Ravinder Bhogal's multicultural upbringing is just the start of what makes Jikoni so unique. 'No Borders Kitchen' is the tagline, and the menu takes inspiration from far and wide, honouring the shared flavours and cultures across South Asian and the Far East, as well as the Middle East, East Africa and Britain.

Bhogal's belief is that the combinations created by cooking across borders always result in more delicious food, and Jikoni leans into a family-oriented style of cooking that exists in immigrant families like her own, rather than the classical French style that London's restaurant culture was built on. The prawn toast Scotch egg is a perfect example of that, a melding of two distinct dishes from different sides of the world. 

The rest of the menu is equally eclectic. Small plates might include Orkney scallop congee with Sichuan chilli oil, burrata with beetroot, cashew and curry leaf oil, and roasted celeriac, kimchi salsa and hazelnuts. Alternatively, there are larger plates that act as single mains, which could be a butternut squash moilee with lemon rice, crispy aubergine with Sichuan caramel or the signature fish pie with cod, prawn, spinach and saffron sauce.

Aside from the tempting food, Jikoni is also one of London's prettiest dining rooms, in shades of pastel pink, white and natural wood, with bright patterned tablecloths and lampshades. Cushions are piled along the wood banquettes, and beautiful block-printed linens are stacked in a corner. Incidentally, those linens are hand-made and available to buy at the restaurant if you so wish. The intention is that this restaurant should feel like an extension of Bhogal's own kitchen - the dining room is relaxed and comforting, as are the food and the service. As unfussy yet elevated and unusual dining goes, this is one of the best spots in the city.