Vinoteca (7 St John Street, London, EC1M 4AA) Vinoteca has a slightly raffish charm fostered by knockabout wooden tables and blackboards scrawled with the names of the current vins du jour. This sets the tone for a relaxed and informal occasion. But don’t be fooled into thinking the food is anything but informed. Vinoteca’s kitchen is certainly on good form at the moment, with an emphasis on full throttle flavour rather than fancy presentation. Char-grilled squid, chilli and mint gremolata delivers delicious respectful flacour with just the righ amount of pep with tomatoes adding a pleasant herbaceous character. Lamb, olive and aubergine ragu with terrific parmesan gnocchi and oregano was yielding and rich and completely moreish. A paradigm of the modern wine bar.
Permanent link to this review 13 October 2009 | | Overall: | 8 |
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| Drinks: | 9 |
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| Service: | 8 |
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| Atmosphere: | 8 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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You can tell there’s enormous passion in this restaurant through the constantly changing roster of special menus, the lovingly put-together wine list and the way the staff, particularly Sue (wife of chef Roger Jones), explain every aspect of the menu – from starters to cheese. Well-crafted menus are a celebration of flavour and good (not fanciful) technique. Understated, but in every respect a foodie's haven.
Permanent link to this review 12 October 2009 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 9 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 7 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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Lutyens (85 Fleet Street, London, EC4Y 1AE) Great new restaurant. Loved the main dining room – light, airy, attractive. Stylish & buzzy, glamorous without being over-the-top. Classic menu, well executed. I had a delicate but really tasty souffle suisse and delicious suckling pig (marred a touch by the crackling being a too dry). Didn't have room for puds – but they looked good, too! Reasonable prices (not the expected 20% Conran premium). Well trained staff, though a touch overbearing initially and a bit self-conscious. Overall impression, though, very good.
Permanent link to this review 4 September 2009 | | Overall: | 8 |
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| Food and Drink: | 8 |
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| Service: | 7 |
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| Atmosphere: | 9 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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Cinnamon Kitchen (9 Devonshire Square, London, EC2M 4WY) This new Indian beacon in the peaceful surrounds of Devonshire Square makes the most of its heritage sight – it's a nice contemporary spin on a historical warehouse setting. I loved the elliptical lampshades whose light softens the setting's harder edges. Currently there's lots of space between tables and the user-friendly menu reflects rather than duplicates the Westminster template, but despite a relatively tight set of options I found them all appealing. Excellent flavours, nice spicing, lots of wider Asian influences. Loved the aubergine dish, above. Look forward to trying the tandoor bar.
Permanent link to this review January 2009 | | Overall: | 8 |
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| Food and Drink: | 8 |
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| Service: | 8 |
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| Atmosphere: | 7 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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Just St James (12 St James's Street, London, SW1A 1ER) You can’t get away from the feeling that you’re eating in an ex banking hall but if you need to talk without neighbouring clatter and eavesdropping then this fits the bill well. Prices seem to be a touch lower. Perfectly decent food, but not spellbinding.
Permanent link to this review September 2008 | | Overall: | 6 |
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| Food and Drink: | 6 |
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| Service: | 7 |
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| Atmosphere: | 5 |
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| Value for Money: | 6 |
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Hakkasan (8 Hanway Place, London, W1T 1HD) Effortlessly stylish. Flavourful food. First rate, bespoke wine list – real passion here. Pricey, not that I mind this with clients. A special occasion place, for sure. Funky, moody decor best experienced at night or lunchtime on dark winter days.
Permanent link to this review September 2008 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 9 |
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| Service: | 8 |
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| Atmosphere: | 10 |
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| Value for Money: | 7 |
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The Ivy (1-5 West Street, London, London, WC2H 9NQ) The Ivy has always been good at delivering comfort food classics (calves’ liver, burgers & fishcakes) and that remains the case, but peppered amongst these stalwarts are a few judicious nods to more modern thinking: a zingy soy sauce infusion added real zest to a perfectly cooked sea bass. The clientele is a strange mix of genuine celebs, gastro tourists and shadowy agent types, though the former were conspicuous by their absence on my recent visit.
Permanent link to this review September 2008 | | Overall: | 6 |
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| Food and Drink: | 6 |
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| Service: | 8 |
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| Atmosphere: | 7 |
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| Value for Money: | 7 |
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