Latest Restaurant Reviews

Editor's Picks

Jul 2016

These reviews have been selected by SquareMeal.co.uk's editor for being particularly helpful or entertaining. Scroll through to find inspiration for your next meal or get the lowdown on the latest launches.

Truc Vert

42 North Audley Street, London W1K 6ZR

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar halfstar empty

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Fun and value in Mayfair

by Gourmand Gunno   platinum reviewer (178)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick As every child knows, dark blue-coloured Mayfair is the final – and therefore the most expensive – spot on the Monopoly board. It’s no surprise then that its restaurants generally clock in on the pricy side. Admittedly, you often pay for what you get, but given the choice on North Audley Street of Roka’s Mayfair outpost or, a few doors down, Truc Vert, then I definitely know which one I would go for. Visiting the latter is not about seeing the D-list celebrities that seek to frequent the former; rather, it is like stepping into your Aunt’s slightly ramshackle kitchen/ living room. Probably the best word to describe the décor of Truc Vert is rustic, but it does work. Diners here feel comforted, almost cosseted and certainly not rushed. Service, correspondingly, can also be somewhat haphazard, but the best strategy is just to roll with it. Truc Vert is open from breakfast onwards and our recent visit occurred on a weekday lunchtime. We had not reserved, but got a decent table at the window by virtue of arriving at noon. The place soon filled up too. The food on offer here is broadly southern French/ Mediterranean, not ground-breaking, but reliably solid and pretty well-executed. Starters are priced in the £7-9 bracket and mains in the £18-20 range, but there are also salads and quiches on offer at more competitive levels too. My baked smoked trout fillet starter was exceptionally tasty even if the restaurant was slightly stingy on the quantity of fish relative to salad. For my main, Truc Vert excelled in preparing a perfectly tender piece of liver accompanied by creamy mash and a bracing spinach foil. My comrade’s choices also pleased and we were delighted to enjoy our dishes with a £30 bottle of Beaujolais chosen from a decent and broad-minded list. We stayed for 2+ hours, no pressure to move on, no rush, another glass of wine and then a coffee. A relaxing and enjoyable experience, and an antidote to much which is over-priced and over-rated nearby.

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Gourmand Gunno's rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar halfstar empty
  • Food & Drink: 8
  • Service: 6
  • Atmosphere: 8
  • Value: 8

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Franco s

61 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6LX

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar half

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Old school charm

by Hugo G.   silver reviewer (24)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick It's always hard to name a great Italian in London, especially given how opinion on Italian cuisine divides even the Italians in town! Is it L'Anima, Cecconis, River Café, Zucca, Murano, Locanda L? Franco's is not quite the aforementioned, but the team do a decent job of getting close. It ticks the boxes for a superb lunch venue - good viewing, outside seating (if you're two), bright and airy, top notch service and good simple food done very well. Expensive, but worth it and a wine list that is both innovative and where decent value can be found - just ask. It's a surefire staple that it will not disappoint especially if you haven't been before.

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Hugo G.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar half
  • Food & Drink: 8
  • Service: 9
  • Atmosphere: 8
  • Value: 7

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Kurobuta Marble Arch

17-20 Kendal Street, London W2 2AW

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty

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Modern Japanese

by Joanna G.   platinum reviewer (57)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick I’ve eaten at the Harvey Nicks branch a number of times, although this branch is much closer to where I live, however, it is in a very strange location on the other side of the Edgware Road and in a very residential area, you wouldn’t stumble across it easily. We had a variety of dishes (mostly the same as we do at HN), but tried the miso chicken on the waitresses recommendation as it exclusive to this branch – to be honest, I wasn’t very impressed, it was pretty bland, but the rest of the sushi, pork belly buns with spicy peanut sauce (I can’t get enough of these), shrimp tempura, dragon rolls etc were well executed and delicious. We were there on a Saturday night and the music was loud and the diners a mix of tourists, groups, families and couples of all ages. Good cocktails and small but good wine list. I like Kurobuta a lot, but I think I prefer the one at Harvey Nicks.

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Joanna G.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty
  • Food & Drink: 8
  • Service: 8
  • Atmosphere: 8
  • Value: 8

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Shaun Dickens at The Boathouse Station Road Henley on Thames

Station Road Henley-on-Thames, Henley-On-Thames RG9 1AZ

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty

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Flying the Culinary Flag for Henley

by Foodess   platinum reviewer (122)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick I can't believe I haven't already reviewed Shaun Dickens who offers the best of the best in Henley on Thames. We have eaten at this modern, riverside restaurant so many times, dined here with friends and family and it rarely disappoints. In fact, sometimes the dishes positively dazzle; fit for a top restaurant anywhere, however, we have occasionally had one or two misses. Yesterday evening, we ate, pre-Henley Festival, from their set menu. The place was buzzing and choice of 3 starters and 3 mains naturally didn't require much deliberation. We both selected chicken liver parfait followed by braised pork. Both were utterly delicious. The parfait was the dreamiest texture contrasted with crunchy celery, semi-soft (perhaps marinated) red onion slivers. One may consider this dish to be a little passe but evidently in the right hands and with all the right accompaniments, it can be excellent and this was. Braised pork neck was cooked to perfection with a potato terrine, bright green puree, broccoli, preserved lemon and a delicious meat jus. Some seasonal staff were being guided by the more experienced during this busy service and everything ticked along very well. The wine selection has grown since first opening and this time by asking the sommelier about the ones we had shortlisted, he recommended a Romanian Syrah which was reasonably priced and delivered a full-fruited, peppery number that 'hit the spot' rather nicely. So much care and attention is applied to food preparation which puts SD firmly on the food map, and I cannot ever imagine front of house being neglected either. We completed with a selection of British cheeses and a slightly less sweet chutney which I would favour over most and which perfectly complemented the generous selection of cheeses. What a great start to our evening.

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Foodess's rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty
  • Food & Drink: 8
  • Service: 8
  • Atmosphere: 8
  • Value: 9

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The Goring Dining Room

The Goring, 15 Beeston Place, London SW1W 0JW

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty

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Expensive Treat

by Foodess   platinum reviewer (122)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick I don't often favour the very traditional hotel dining room, but there is an almost " je ne sais quoi" about The Goring dining room, even though décor is not really one I would admire. Lunchtime the light floods into a spacious and comfortable place and it makes me feel relaxed, the atmosphere is one of unrushed, efficiency with everything seemingly under control. Given the proximity to Westminster it is probably not uncommon to spot well-heeled business people and MPs. In our case it was a former PM whose pockets (or a colleague's) are evidently deep enough to dine here and beyond. Some country property brochure waving was going on, the subject of which being bandied about the lunch table - I digress and so I will leave the tittle tattle and get on with the important stuff. Service is second to none, drinks are expensive, but they are very good and the sommelier advises appropriately. In two visits, the food has been sophisticated and pretty good-looking, but that's not what interests me the most. Flavours and textures are the highlight and rightfully so. Starting with a summer veg salad with smoked goats curd was delightfully true to season. Confit egg yolk with chicken wings and a prosciutto was another winner. Chicken main with a potato truffle salad pleased greatly. Turbot was not too far behind served with delicately smoked mussels and a summer garden pea concoction on the side. We ordered an extra side of the sweetest heritage carrots. Breads are excellent - one with fig and raisin and a hint of fennel really did hit a high note for me. Now thinking up another excuse to treat ourselves - ah yes, have to go back to try dessert.

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Foodess's rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty
  • Food & Drink: 8
  • Service: 9
  • Atmosphere: 8
  • Value: 8

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St John

26 St John Street, London EC1M 4AY

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar emptystar emptystar empty

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Lacked Oomph and More!

by Foodess   platinum reviewer (122)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick From previous reviews I could hardly believe that I was eating at the same restaurant, lunchtime early July 2016. I had heard about Fergus Henderson and so had a reasonable idea of what to expect, or so I thought. To begin, pollock served cold was unexpected (hot would have been preferable and being such an economic and unexciting fish in itself, it needs to be made interesting). Well they tried, but completely over-powered the dish with garlic in the aioli, to the extent that just a couple of mouthfuls gave my taste buds a zap over-lasting welcome. I was quickly offered an alternative and asked for the Kohlrabi. Simple but now heading to the opposite extreme; rather plain - claimed to be "the most refreshing starter" with capers, but given the fact that I truly had no more than 6 small pieces on my plate, they struggled to lift this boring dish which could have been better had it been generously drenched with herbs and extra capers. Bread and butter was fairly good; my main was completely lack lustre. Hake (served on the bone but the tail end, so not the fleshiest piece) didn’t even smell that appetising when I cut into it, and lacked seasoning too. The white beans with sea purslane again were anything but flavourful, cabbage was fine. My partner was quite under-whelmed with cold egg, ham and beans starter, describing the rabbit as rather ‘monochrome’, but we ploughed on. One be-spectacled staff member was an utter delight and had it not been for him and some of his colleagues, then the temptation may have been to ‘cut and run’ settling for starters and drinks. To finish we ordered Madeleines, having watched a plate waft by, which were cooked whilst you wait, so these just had to be good, didn’t they? To my great relief they were, but all too late to even approach redemption during a highly disappointing experience. Wine except for the blanc de blanc does not deserve mention. Not a vastly expensive meal overall, but £130 for two, mid-week lunch for the quality of ingredients and sub-standard dishes, the meal seemed exorbitant. I left over 50% of my main course - understandably we were now pariah’s to the staff, but one brave soul removed my plate in silence - I refrained from comment too, having given gentle feedback on my starter. I’d rather spend about the same money for food with real punchy flavours like Eric Chavot or Barra Fina. Nothing wrong with rustic style, simple, low-cost ingredients prepared with care, but this missed on many levels for all courses except one, all of which were rather one-dimensional. Just a bad day at the office, or does this place sometimes slip to depths that most restaurants would never ever want to reach?

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Foodess's rating

star fullstar fullstar emptystar emptystar empty
  • Food & Drink: 2
  • Service: 7
  • Atmosphere: 5
  • Value: 2

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Dickie Fitz

48 Newman Street, London W1T 1QQ

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty

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Sunny dining room

by Lynn W.   platinum reviewer (68)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick Handy location for after-work drinks and a bite to eat, and loved the light room and sunny yellow leather seating . We had gyoza and crudites with dip and smashed avocado to start, the gyoza good, the crudites pretty in a big bowl of ice, but the dips underwhelming. After that, Australian rib-eye steak with smoked bone-marrow butter, and BBQ pork chop with pineapple and black pudding. On the side, fries with chicken salt, and salad. The grilled meats were cooked beautifully, moist and juicy, but pretty large so no room for dessert. Staff are pleasant and friendly, it's a very nice spot, but we didn't think there was an especaily Australian feel to the place. Would be happy to go there again when in the area.

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Lynn W.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty
  • Food & Drink: 8
  • Service: 8
  • Atmosphere: 8
  • Value: 8

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Humble Grape

2 Battersea Rise, London SW11 1ED

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full

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Raise a glass: The Humble Grape

by Nic C.   (3)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick Fleet Street. Wine bar. A couple of decades ago, the words would have conjured up images of navy-blue-suited, signet-ring-wearing, beaujolais-nouveau-quaffing, shouting-into-oversize-Motorola-mobile-phones-housed-in-briefcases, one-failed-trade-away-from-an-aneurism city boys. And sure, today the late 80s/early 90s yuppie has arguably been replaced by a far more sinister breed - the corporate hipster - but at least we can now all enjoy a decent drop before rushing to catch trains bound for our £400,000 studio flats in an up-and-coming (ignore the queues waiting for their methadone fix each morning) pocket of zone 3. Tucked down St Brides Passage - a cork-pop-distance from St Paul’s and the Millennium Bridge - this (appropriately) subterranean wine bar and cellar is less clocking off rowdy boozer and more sophisticated dining space - a refreshing change for city workers tired of ploughing through the all-vaping, all-shouting crowds that swarm outside of every All Bar One situated within a couple of square miles of The Gherkin come 4pm. Yes, this attractive venue (hopefully soon to branch out into a little outside terrace) is dedicated to all things vinous - and we not talking any old plonk here - the bottles are biodynamic or organic, or hail from sustainable vineyards. Pick up one to take home, or enjoy them in situ over dinner, at the bar, in the 16-seater private dining room or perhaps at one of the most romantic dinner a deux locations I have ever come across - a cellar with space for a couple to sip their favourite tipple (they will take special requests) while gazing into each eyes. That is if they can tear themselves away from the design flourishes that abound - the ultra-sustainable cork walls, the one colourful piece of modern art that brightens the stones wall, the old arches that I am assured were designed by none other than Mr Christopher Wren… On the evening I visit, winemaker Andreas Huetwöhl of Von Winning and Dr Deinhard is over from Germany - the previous night was one of The Humble Grapes’ regional tasting dinners - on 31 August 2016 the team will be serving up wines from Chilean outfit Millaman - and having impressed guests with a Dr Deinhard Grauer Burgunder 2014 (this German pinot gris is flavour-packed compared to its often average Italian counterpart - think juicy notes of citrus peach) and a mind-blowingly complex and delicious Weingut Von Winning Forster Ungeheuer Reisling 2013 - Andreas joins us over a table strewn with share plates of roasted vegetables, seafood (hello Galician-style octopus) and beef cecina from northern Spain, and huge wooden platters strewn with steak entrecôte (the dry-aged Hertfordshire beef is perfectly succulent) and wheels of gooey baked camembert topped with crumbled pistachios. I am in wine tasting heaven. For me, the tipple of the night had to be Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch Chardonnay 2013 from the Russian River Valley region of California. It’s buttery, just the right level of oaky and elegantly and obligingly ready to coat your mouth in supremely delicate yet robust honey smoothness. The guys are big advocates of ‘vinotyping’ - head to the website and a little survey will inform you as to which of four personas you fit into: tolerant, sensitive, hypersensitive or sweet - but I found everything I tried delighted me - no matter how many tastebuds I might have or what my palate might prefer. The reds were no different - a drinkable Von Winning Pinot Noir II 2013 and a ballsy, experimental Rioja made with a blend of tempranillo, syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. And as if they read my wine-soaked mind, we finish with sweet dessert wine and biscotti. If you like wine, want to learn more about wine, want to broaden your wine horizons, want to discover a world beyond box wine - whatever the reason - this vinous venue quenches the city’s thirst for an unpretentious, civilised drinking den. With not a yuppie or wine wanker in sight.

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Nic C.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full
  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 10
  • Value: 10

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Park Chinois

17 Berkeley Street, London W1S 4NF

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full

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Sumputous Speakeasy

by Amy M.   gold reviewer (36)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick I love this place! It has all the things that Hakkasan has surrendered. Style, sophistication, decadence and a hint of the exclusive. But not impossibly so. Reminiscent of an Opium Den or a Peking speakeasy of the 1930s the richly furnished upstairs room is warm and enveloping with lots of red velvet, especially as there are no windows. Downstairs has a more caberet, Chinese theatre-type feel with black and gold, accented with purples; all beautiful and clearly expensive. I was taking daddy for Father's Day and had to wait for my parents; the barman (do NOT call him a mixologist) was charming, with the right amount of chatter for a lady on her own and most importantly, makes a killer classic martini. Once at the table our waitress was attentive without hovering and wonderfully smiling throughout our meal. We are dim sum fiends, so nothing else got a look in and we had a fabulous feast. Incredibly juicy Har Gau, spectacular Siew Long Bao and amazing Scallop XO dumplings to name a few. We went in for seconds and the waitress recommended that we try the Beancurd Prawn Cheung Fun, which was probably the most delicious thing of the whole meal. Once again, a very expensive, very adult place is allowing in BABIES. Yes the witch (or substitute whatever consonant you prefer) is back, however, I am just unhappy paying £75 a head in one of the hottest restaurants in town to share my environment with something that uncontrollably screams at volume. We recently ate in the Hakkasan Mayfair, switching from Soho, in the vain hope of recapturing the specialness and left reasonably underwhelmed with both the food and experience. At Park Chinois, the staff were lovely; happy to let us poke around the (closed) room downstairs with a guide, charming and beautifully attired wait staff. The food is exquisitely executed it is a glorious place to be. This place really does deliver on fine Chinese dining and an experience worth paying for.

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Amy M.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full
  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 8
  • Value: 8

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Canto Corvino

21 Artillery Lane, London E1 7HA

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full

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A wonderful find!

by Sarah G.   gold reviewer (38)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick When i discover a restaurant like this, i keep everything crossed that when you return all is still the same. The restaurant itself is lovely, warm and inviting with bare brick and very tasteful bar area. The service was impeccable and the food fantasic. The wine recommendation with our steak was spot on - in fact, one of the best wines i've tasted for a while. I've been caught out before asking for recommendations on the wine, only to find out that i've spent in excess of £50 - our recommendation was only £28 and worth every penny. Not sure if this is part of a chain or independently owned but whoever is running and managing this restaurant, has so far, got everything right!

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Sarah G.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full
  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 10
  • Value: 10

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Morada Brindisa

18-20 Rupert Street, London W1D 6DE

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar emptystar emptystar empty

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Spat-out

by Gourmand Gunno   platinum reviewer (178)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick Eating out is generally considered to be a joyful experience. Doing so regularly, I clearly subscribe to such a view. I also recognise that popular restaurants – understandably – want to turn their tables, to draw in as many visitors as possible and also to make a fatter profit. A recent Saturday evening visit to Morada Brindisa left me generally depressed. Rarely have I felt so much like a metaphorical item being processed on a conveyer belt, spat in and out of the restaurant in less than an hour with barely a whiff or personal service. This was all the more disappointing since I have visited its sister outlet Brindisa Soho on several occasions and rated it, and further, because Morada looked promising at the outset. The feel in Morada is quite authentically Spanish in terms of décor and music. Note the tiling on the floor and the 360-degree bar counter. Time spent here I (naively) thought might be a bit like being in Madrid or Barcelona, perhaps leisurely propping up the bar, nibbling on some tapas and shooting the breeze. My comrade and I in fact opted for a table as we had assumed this might be more intimate. Perhaps this was the first mistake since we were shown to the back of the restaurant despite the place not being full and I could also not help noticing how closely packed together the tables were. We decided to share a selection of tapas and a bottle of wine, hardly controversial in itself. We were informed that, as in Spain, the food would come when the kitchen had prepared it. So far, so good. Our wine arrived first and while it was served at an inappropriately warm temperature (even for a Ribera del Duero red), this was the least of our problems. Visualise our table now: two water glasses, two wine glasses and one wine bottle. Already quite crowded. Now picture the same table five minutes later. Seven of our nine tapas dishes had arrived and the scene was reminiscent of trying to put ill-matched pieces of a jigsaw together in a space that was never going to be appropriate. Message to restaurant: get bigger tables or maybe have slightly (more)coordination and consideration of diners’ needs in the kitchen. One further unfortunate consequence of this set up was that almost as soon as the last forkful of any dish had been finished, our officious waitress scooped up said item and whisked it way. Intimate or restful this was not. Oh, and the food itself, was barely average. The ‘pan de coca’ (tomato bread) was served beautifully in a do-it-yourself style, but was stingy on the tomatoes; the Spanish sausage skewer contained a trio of greasy and chewy globules of almost unidentifiable meat; and the mixed roasted vegetable platter almost leant new definition to the word bland. I could go on. For c£40/head, I could definitely find better value and more enjoyment elsewhere.

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Gourmand Gunno's rating

star fullstar fullstar emptystar emptystar empty
  • Food & Drink: 5
  • Service: 5
  • Atmosphere: 5
  • Value: 4

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Greenberry Cafe

101 Regent’s Park Road, Camden NW1 8UR

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar half

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My favourite local restaurant

by Joanna G.   platinum reviewer (57)

Jun 2016

Editor's pick The Greenberry Cafe does everything from breakfast, brunch and dinner and they do it very well. Always high quality, fresh ingredients, excellent specials and reliable menu favourites. Beware, if you turn up on a weekend for brunch without a booking, you are likely to be disappointed, it is absolutely heaving and tables are on a 1.5 hour turnaround. The atmosphere on weekday evenings is much more relaxed, happy hour cocktails and a much more leisurely affair. The staff are all great, one of the owners M is usually there running around and making sure everyone is looked after. I wish there were more places like this!

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Joanna G.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar half
  • Food & Drink: 9
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 8
  • Value: 8

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The Palomar

34 Rupert Street, London W1D 6DN

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full

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Simplicity and Respect for Ingredients and a Lovely Friendly Atmosphere

by Nemo H.   (1)

Jun 2016

Editor's pick I went for dinner with a friend on Saturday night. Very pleasantly surprised. Wave after wave of dishes arrived that ticked the box for being very fresh and simply prepared, letting the ingredients speak for themselves. In the mix was a Seafood Pasta dish on the specials menu that was simply amazing and as good as anything I've had in Italy. The cocktails were surprising and the simple wine list was brief and well judged. Had a very delicious and drinkable Pecorino. The perfectly judged service was informal and very friendly. My only reservation was the slightly loud in the mix popular music selection, but to be completely honest it's churlish to mention that when everything else was simply delightful and fun.

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Nemo H.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full
  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 8
  • Value: 8

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Le Restaurant de Paul City

Tower 42, 25 Old Broad Street, London EC2N 1HQ

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar half

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Food is an introduction to culture

by Omoruyi O.   (1)

Jun 2016

Editor's pick Our travels have taken us to different regions and cities in France: Paris, Bordeaux, Saint-Malo, Calais, Monpellier. As our list continues to grow, so does our love for French cuisine. When we learned that PAUL, the famous French bakery and patisserie, had a restaurant in London's financial district, we went to find out if they could reproduce their legacy of fine taste in their restaurant menu at Le Restaurant de PAUL Tower 42. We were not disappointed. We highly recommend the Petite Assiette de Crudites de Printemps (soft carrots, beetroot, baby leek and broccoli) for starters with the Steak de Thon et sa Niciose de Printemps (tuna steak) for those seeking seafood with a difference. The staff were excellent and catered for our gluten and diary allergies with ease and a smile. The atmosphere is very much suited to the City lunch time crowd and may be slightly lacking in atmosphere for the more casual evening diner. Regardless, if you're after great French cuisine in the city without breaking the bank, we can't recommend this restaurant more highly. PAUL the bakery have done a great job in preserving their legacy of taste.

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Omoruyi O.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar half
  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 9
  • Atmosphere: 6
  • Value: 9

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The Gurnard s Head

Treen near Zennor St Ives, Penzance TR26 3DE

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar halfstar emptystar empty

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Disappointing to say the least

by Paul A.   platinum reviewer (75)

Jun 2016

Editor's pick The reputation of the Gurnard’s Head seems to have spread far and wide judging from the number of foreign number plates, especially German, in the car park, but when we left the restaurant, disappointed, we had to wonder why. Although we had booked well in advance we were not offered a table in the dining room, the existence of which only became clear to us later when people drifted in on the off chance and were seated there, although it was doubtful whether we would have escaped the pub-level muzak anywhere. The service varied from the cheerful to the sullen, the main example of the latter being when we pointed out that we had been undercharged and we got the impression that we were thereby making more work for the poor soul behind the bar. The wine list contained some interesting bottles and a low mark-up and plenty of helpful explanations from the restaurant’s consultant on why all the wines were really good. My wife started with dunkable monkfish “scampi” which allowed her to make full use of the soda bread we were served, seemingly in lieu of any canapés, and came with good kohlrabi slaw, tartar sauce and some fennel cress, and I indulged my crustacean habit with some decent crab decorated with red basil leaf, pasta and basil gratin. We both chose the red gurnard in honour of the restaurant’s name and the fish was light and well-seasoned and bathing in a fairly tasteless squid ink sauce, accompanied by orange which failed to have any input, an intrusive anise gel, and roasted broccoli. The dessert choice was easily sorted; my wife indulged herself with chocolate pavé, coffee macaron and melted caramel, while I went for what turned out to be a deconstructed Eton Mess with sweet Cornish rhubarb, toasted almonds, lemon balm and chunks of meringue. Our assessment would be that this was no more than run-of-the mill even for Cornwall’s wild west, and if we pass this way again we have better dining destinations to return to.

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Paul A.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar halfstar emptystar empty
  • Food & Drink: 6
  • Service: 3
  • Atmosphere: 3
  • Value: 6

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