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|Address:||6-10 Bruton Street, London W1J 6PU|
|Tel:||020 7495 7100|
|Price: £104.00||Wine: £32.00||Champagne: £60.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sat 12N-2.45pm Mon-Sun 6.30-10pm (Fri-Sat -10.30pm Sun -9.30pm)|
1 of 1 people found this review helpful.
My first visit to the Square was over a decade ago and my last – until yesterday – had been in 2006. That a restaurant can remain consistently at the top of its game over such a long period of time is testament to its qualities, in particular the cooking of Philip Howard. Having dined recently at The Ledbury too, I am undoubtedly proud to have such a wide range of quality restaurants in London that can comfortably hold their own on the global stage. At £37.50 for a three-course set lunch, there is a clearly competitive price option, allowing the diner to experience the cooking of two Michelin-starred chef. My comrade and I chose the set menu and both the amuse-bouche and starter were breathtakingly executed, flawlessly presented and combining an innovative range of seasonal ingredients. To begin, a thin sliver of anchovy on toast balanced on a cold and lightly spiced almond soup. This was followed by a pig’s trotter served with celeriac (very much a choice du jour it seems in London’s restaurants currently). Sadly, however, while the first two dishes had raised my expectations of what was to come, both the main and the pudding were relatively more disappointing. My breast of guinea fowl floated in a rather anaemic combination of crayfish and sweetcorn, while the salad of nectarines and strawberries with peach sorbet and apricot snow that followed was unnecessarily sweet and reminded me slightly of the sort of jellied dessert served at childrens’ parties of yesteryear. On the plus side, the wine list offers huge choice and yet the single glass options (which we selected) were priced reasonably and my Bordeaux paired exceptionally well with the guinea fowl. One final comment, for a restaurant of this quality, the service too struck us as somewhat indifferent, especially since the dining room was only moderately busy. In other words, message to the Square: keep up the good work, but don’t rest on your laurels…