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|Address:||20 Queen Street, London W1J 5PP|
|Tel:||020 7495 1127|
|Price: £91.00||Wine: £29.50||Champagne: £65.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sat 12N-3pm 6.30-11pm|
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We had some memorable dinners when Angela Hartnett was at the Connaught and much to my shame I had never been to Murano. Until yesterday, when a business contact suggested lunch there. Everything is as it is supposed to be in a restaurant of this caliber. Precise service, a pleasant, if a bit too hushed dining room, good tables, good light flooding from the street. The food though, takes center stage. Even more than at her previous venture Artnett is presenting a new take on Italian inspired classics. The tastes are bolder and more defined. There is more “gusto” in the cooking, than at the Connhaught. The potato pancake with taleggio was memorable. Delicate, fluffy, yet packing a punch. My host had the octopus and by the looks of it must have just jumped out of the water. Sometimes I like to see how chefs can make even a obvious, tired dish like a beef bavette interesting and I was pleasantly surprised. The meet (perfectly cooked) arrived on a bed of sweetcorn and pepper salsa that transformed it into a firework of flavors. The pre-dessert, a lime granita infused with lavender, was the perfect dish to cleanse the palate. The wine list as you would expect is robust with some interesting newcomers. I didn't see the bill but the three course set lunch at £30 is a steal. I will certainly go back to sample the evening menu.