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|Address:||Pennyhill Park Hotel, London Road, Bagshot, Surrey GU19 5EU|
|Price: £55.00||Wine: £20.00||Champagne: £48.00|
|Opening Hours:||Wed-Fri 12.30-2pm, Tues-Sat 7pm-9.15pm (Fri-Sat -9.30pm)|
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The last two reviews were measured, fair and entertaining. I don’t think that sample menus on web sites are necessarily a ploy to entice under false-pretence, because it would not make sense to delude and I wouldn’t have thought that many of the more revered establishments could afford to risk that. Chefs cooking to a very high standard must serve produce that he/she feels is best and fresh on the day. Freshness was evidently paramount at the Latymer as it is with most restaurants holding Michelin stars. I do, however, object to the likes of some carrying the same dishes through the seasons – Tom Kerridge, for one, seemed to ‘rest on his laurels’ from season to season at one time. I think Michael Wignall’s food is quite different, more refined, intricate and very interesting, but somehow, each has 2 michelin stars. (As an aside : if portion size and big, big flavours are important, then TK is your man.) Delicate, clever, precise, and flavourful is primarily what you will find at the Latymer. Should choices be a concern, then customers should ring and check what is likely to be served on the day, as I have been caught out by almost choosing on line beforehand only to find the really interesting sounding dish is not available.
I can’t add a great deal as Tanya below succinctly echoes my view, but if you are remotely interested in my observations, then please read on.
Having had the 7 course menu last weekend, I personally don’t think anyone need worry as to what is on offer – sit back, relax and enjoy the journey. For example : my partner ate cold mackerel to which no heat had been applied, and from which he would normally steer many miles away in order to avoid his culinary nemesis, whether traditionally cooked or not. The fresh slivers, carefully matched a cacophony of ingredients, with beautiful colours and textures, which he knew had been carefully balanced in every way for maximum enjoyment. Bread was light French style; one superb dip (just described as canape) of what seemed to me to be a pot of taramasalata base perhaps mixed with something rich like foie gras plus a layer of stock jelly on top which could have been duck, anyway it was full of flavour – the second dip was like a pale and aerated mayonnaise – pleasant served with the multi-coloured chinese style crackers.
There were mostly highs throughout for me, but my plaice dish although intended to be delicate in texture and flavour had a little too much flavour diluted by the residual almost clear water that remained on the plate. My partner’s duck was delicious. I wanted to quietly draw attention to the plaice and I was immediately offered an alternative, which is how it should be. The aim is to please and they did. Another mention has to be the deconstructed lemon meringue pie. I preferred this from the chocolate dish which followed – probably because one dessert is enough and I just happen to love citrus.
Service was mostly very good; the chateauneuf du pape superb, but I wish some of the staff would sound slightly more enthusiastic about what they serve, but then the restaurant was packed and they were running full-tilt, so I can forgive. them for that……and afterall with so many courses and a long list of ingredients in each dish, they have a great deal to memorise!