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|Address:||74 Welbeck Street, London W1G 0BA|
|Tel:||020 7224 4239|
|Price: £28.00||Wine: £15.00||Champagne: £35.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 12N-11pm (Fri-Sat -1am Sun -9.30pm)|
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It feels a bit copy-cat tastic to join the chorus of approval, but there is no way of hiding the fact that my recent dinner at meatliquor was an unmitigated triumph. How happy am I that I arrived suitably hungry? To have not done the food justice would have been criminal, but let me go back on myself and give a more fulsome account of what went down culinary wise on Friday night.
My friend and I were wise enough to turn up super early, as in still wearing office attire early rather than shed of our work persona and be in our ‘home clothes’ – and this tactic spared us the worst of the queues, although when we did enter the no bookings system was somewhat stretched to capacity as there was a gaggle of other diners waiting by the bar to be seated. Luckily for us this is when the cocktail menu kicked into play. I started and indeed continued the night on Fallen Angelitas a tequila based cocktail that was deceptively refreshing but packed a boozy punch – think souped-up lime cordial and you get the general flavour. The décor was very ‘Goths-r-Us’: faux blood splattered walls, graffiti ‘house rules’ scrawled on the wall proclaiming ‘no d***heads’ and other unsavoury sorts allowed and indie-rock being blasted from the stereo system. The regulation hipsters have been transplanted from their natural East End habitat to serve as waiting staff in this West End establishment and the food and drink orders are bellowed across the din to add to the whole manic vibe. Whilst some might find these affectations a tad pretentious, the food and dare I type it, the pretty factor of said staff, made you forgive all of the above.
The menu is pretty short and focused. Do not come here if you don’t want to eat a burger or hot dog with fries and do not come here if you like fancy tableware and would baulk at your food being served to you on a metal tray. I would say do not come here on a first date, but if your ardour for one another can survive rivulets of burger juice travelling up your arm as you go for your first bite and copious mouth wiping with the kitchen towel roll provided (no point in napkins when you are tackling the unholy trinity of mustard, ketchup and mayo), then it’s good to say you’re onto a winner. I opted for the Green Chilli Cheese Burger, a riff on a classic cheeseburger with the introduction of green chilli mayo and a portion of classic fries and my friend had the Mushroom Swiss Burger. The fact that neither of us talked to one another for twenty minutes (and we can both chat for England) tells a story all of its own about how good these burgers are. Add to this that by the time my plate was clear I was chair-dancing in happiness (hey, by this point I had embraced all elements of the experience and Santigold was playing on the stereo), shows just how good it felt to eat something so uncompromisingly delicious.
Simple things done well may have become a trend of late in the dining scene with the proliferation of singular themed restaurants opening up, but when they are done this well, you can be forgiven for not bothering to diversify the menu. Next time I am coming dressed like a latter day Afro-Zombie and eating a Dead Hippie Burger with fries AND slaw. The food will definitely be good so I might as well aim for blending in with the surroundings accordingly.