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|Address:||110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY|
|Tel:||020 3640 7310|
|Price: £58.00||Wine: £35.00||Champagne: £65.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 24 hours|
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The magical glass Charlie & the Chocolate Factory lift which whizzed us up to Duck & Waffle was probably worth the £67-a-head lunch bill in itself. It is an amazing view up there and the restaurant certainly makes the most of it with huge windows and well thought through layout giving superb near panoramic views. The atmosphere is near perfect with plenty of background hum (well, conversation should never run dry with that view, and there's always the open kitchen to goggle at and gossip about if it does). As for the food itself, Willy Wonka has certainly been working on the menu: waffle with duck and egg?! Well, if Heston can make bacon ice cream, why not? Well, because this isn't actually very tasty. Waffle yes, duck yes, egg yes, but altogether it's a sickly, sticky, weird mess of a combination with too much going on: sweet sauce does not go with runny yolk which does not go with duck which does not go with heavy thick batter in my taste buds' opinions. Billy Bonkers. Other people seem to love it but I'm glad we shared one between 3 of us as a few mouthfuls are enough. Same goes for the spicy ox cheek doughnut. The best were the simple dishes: delicious fresh bread, the melt-in-the-mouth smoked salmon, the salads, and the pollack fishballs (billed as a pollack “meatballs”. why?) which were wacky, but this time, wonderful mouthfuls. The restaurant blurb says it is playful European and British cuisine but I can't help feeling it's aimed at the mythical ‘Chateau Lafite mixed with Coca-Cola’ crowd. We had a few good cocktails and glasses of wine and service was just about attentive enough (the usual minor problems with having multiple servers instead of one dedicated person and usual delay in getting bill and paying which I can never understand). It was a fantastic experience and I could be persuaded back to the uber-cool bar if they'd have me, but the restaurant is never going to take that duck & waffle off the menu so for me it really is a once in a lifetime thing.