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|Address:||14 Denman Street, London W1D 7HJ|
|Tel:||020 3544 0759|
|Price: £31.00||Wine: £14.95|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 12M-11pm (Fri-Sat -12M Sun -6pm)|
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Clockjack Oven might be positioning itself in the Limited Menu Gimmick Gang with the likes of Burger & Lobster but after last week's dinner I wonder if it isn't more Burger King. The No Reservation Gimmick is also in play but luckily we were seated immediately (well it was a Monday night and the anti-capitalist protesters had scared everyone into taking refuge in nearby shops, sweet irony). I like a one-trick pony (there's a higher eating to choosing time ratio) so I was reasonably happy with the extremely brief menu which offers pretty much just rotisserie chicken; we ordered a whole one to share. Our waitress was friendly. A bit too friendly. You still need to remain professional, even if you are from The North and like to chat. More importantly, you need to remember to give the order to the kitchen. After waiting 30 mins, and watching later arrivals being served, we gently enquired as to our own order. It was coming apparently but we were given some strange excuse about the whole chickens not being ready, unlike the cut-up chickens: hmmm, are the cut up chickens not cut up from a whole chicken which you could have served us? Anyway, we were given some herb bites or something for free so that was us bought off. When the chicken was delivered it was not in fact whole, but cut up. Even the herb bites couldn't distract me from my confusion over that one. Anyway, the chicken, cut up, is actually quite good: very juicy, plump, and simply chicken-y. But the sauces are a bit Heinz, the “Chicken Bites” are those KFC Chicken popcorn thingies by another name and the “double cooked chips” look like any old single cooked fries. This is just fast food, only not so fast. For under £20 a head (chicken, sides, wine between 3) it is pretty good value for a sit down “restaurant” meal in this part of town, but Nandos on nearby Glasshouse Street could probably say the same.