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|Address:||70 Charlotte Street, London W1T 4QG|
|Tel:||020 7637 7770|
|Price: £18.00||Champagne: £32.00|
|Opening Hours:||Tues-Sat 11.30am-4pm 5.30-11pm|
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In Sweden they say that ‘taste is like the buttocks – divided’, the point being that matters of taste can be two sides of the same coin (or cheeks if you want to persist with the original metaphor, not that you can say ‘cheeks of the same coin’ but you get my drift). Anyway. Bubbledogs is really three hospitality offerings in one – a three-buttocked man if you will.
The first offering, or metaphorical buttock, is a champagne bar, serving only lesser known growers. The range is excellent, the menu descriptors are very helpful but the prices are never less than stonking (£60+ for a bottle, and very few options by the glass). The seating (bar stools at shared wooden tables) is not terribly conducive to drinking champagne. Score: high for drink and service, low for atmos and value.
The second offering is a hotdog restaurant. The food is fantastic: expertly made sausages that do not stray too far from the frankfurter taste, garnished with fine toppings, served in a perfect milk roll. Sides were superbly cooked and up there with Disco Bistro. Prices are at the higher end of what you'd pay for a hot dog but not daft. The casual venue is fine for posh fast food. Score high for food and service, and middling for value and atmosphere.
The main obstacle to enjoying either the first or second options is that there are no reservations and always a queue – people love a gimmick, and judging by the languages being spoken in the queue, they travel some distance to try one. As good as the fizz and dogs are, I wouldn't queue for an hour for them.
The third offering is a Chef's Table serving a long tasting menu which has absolutely nothing to do with sausages in buns. This is hidden behind a curtain. It's hard to glean what the food is like since they only tweet one-word descriptions of 10-12 courses on the day. I would love to go but haven't managed yet. This does have the key advantage of being bookable.
Once the novelty has worn off, and there are fewer bums on seats, I recommend getting your arse down to Bubbledogs, ideally to squeeze round the Kitchen Table on a day when you get wind of empty spaces.