A civilised refuge from the student mayhem of East Road, Cotto occupies the upper floor of a tall brick townhouse, reached by a little alleyway. Four evenings a week, the city’s foodies, dons and well-off graduates congregate in the light-filled dining room for chef/patron Hans Schweitzer’s fastidiously crafted, modern European food. The menu mixes classic ideas with some modish contemporary creations, ranging from eggs Benedict with new season’s asparagus or sautéed veal kidney and sweetbreads with wholegrain mustard sauce to goats’ cheese brûlée with roasted beetroots or grey mullet with queen scallops and gazpacho. An extraordinary array of home-baked breads, wondrous hand-made chocolates and intricate desserts testify to Schweitzer’s background as a confiseur and patissier (try his caramelised apple and frangipane tart). Gracious, stylish service and some alluring European wines add to the pleasure eating here.