Chef James Sommerin has made the Crown at Whitebrook one of Wales’ top dining destinations. He won his first Michelin star in 2007 & his imaginative, endlessly interesting cooking continues to scale the heights. To start, poached squab might be harmoniously teamed with feta, watermelon pearls, shallot & thyme purée; ‘surf & turf’ is revisited in the form of a piece of tender Welsh Black beef with langoustine tortellini, parsley root purée & confit shallot, while seafood options might include pan-seared monkfish cheek with butternut squash, foie gras boudin & sherry. Familiar-sounding desserts such as tiramisu or apple crumble also take on a less familiar appearance in Sommerin’s hands, & each meal is punctuated with engaging diversions. A knowledgeable sommelier is on hand to guide you through the enormous, well-chosen wine list, & impeccable service includes the frills & formalities you’d expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant – but without the stuffy pomposity. Windows in the immaculate, pale-toned dining rooms look onto a tree-covered hillside.