The moment you set foot in this village stalwart you know you’re in the hands of professionals, thanks to its polished front-of-house team, its comfortable, contemporary good looks, & cooking that knocks the spots off most local Italians. The menu offers updated treatments of Italian standards, so so a carpaccio of duck or deep-fried rice balls with smoked mozzarella & hot tomato sauce might be followed by breast of chicken with lemon & thyme & garlic spinach or fillet of red mullet with sage & Parma ham. Pasta is a particular forte: tortellini in brodo say, or pappardelle with walnut sauce. Desserts, meanwhile, are creamy & fruity: almond pannacotta with pear compote headed our list of favourites. The all-Italian wine list is also a delight.