J Baker’s Bistro Moderne

J Baker’s Bistro Moderne, in York’s historic Fossgate, may sound a bit of a mouthful but rest assured, Jeff Baker all about using simple, local ingredients. He held a Michelin star at Pool Court for ten years (it closed at the end of 2005), so there’s no doubting the Middlesbrough-born chef’s pedigree. But even though he insists it’s not stars he’s after here – his motto is ‘inclusivity not exclusivity’ – Baker’s competency shows through in the cooking. The grazing menu, available by day & early evening, might include Whitby crab trifle, handmade black pudding, & Swaledale mutton curry, while a fixed price a la carte is offered after 6pm, delivering, say, classic onion tart ahead of butter roast English partridge, chestnut and game sausage and creamed parsnip, with muscavado and banana pudding with banana and rum custard to finish. The ground floor 30-cover restaurant is all pale woods & tranquil browns & creams with a bar & private dining room upstairs.