The Anoushka Hempel-designed dining room is deeply embedded in the heart of this grand hotel, and the understated luxuriousness of the white-panelled interior will always be a draw for those seeking a cocoon rather than a playground. Smooth, knowledgeable service and Adam Simmonds’ extravagantly talented cooking certainly help to focus the mind on matters gastronomic, and the Michelin-starred chef draws on the best of contemporary technique to create a harmonious blend of highly intricate flavours, textures and aromas. Dinner brings a choice of tasting menus – a vivid procession of thrilling dishes that might commence with a plate of langoustines, mackerel, anchovy and English wasabi. After that, a powerful assembly of roasted venison fillet with chestnut purée, confit celeriac and bacon crunch raises the bar even further, likewise a wittily presented dessert of frozen white chocolate mousse with blackberry purée, dehydrated white chocolate and nasturtium. A cracking wine list enhances the experience at this dazzling set-up.