Celeb chef Marco Pierre White’s name has now vanished from the front of the Yew Tree & so has its kudos. That said, the low-lit interiors of this pretty 17th-century country inn haven’t changed – it remains a smart brasserie set-up complete with black crescent-shaped banquettes, linen-dressed tables & a modern bar. Meanwhile old timbers, a huge inglenook & exposed brick walls lined with prints & mirrors add a more characterful note. Menus, from ex-Ivy chef Nick Beavan, follow a well-tried format, with crowd-pleasing renditions of staples designed to comfort rather than challenge: potted shrimps ahead of rib-eye with béarnaise, shepherd’s pie or whole plaice (served with shrimp butter, spinach & new potatoes), with rhubarb trifle & profiteroles to finish. The nicely judge global wine list comes with good by-the-glass selections, though an irritating £2 per head cover charge can grate – especially as prices are big-city rather than bucolic Berkshire.
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