Marco Pierre White’s departure may see The Yew Tree leave prime-time television but its ancient charm and dependable country cooking remain very much intact. Where culinary-themed paintings have replaced Marco memorabilia on bare brick and whitewashed walls, flowing cloths and dinky table lamps still lend a sense of classy retro to the cosy, low ceilinged dining room. The old-school British menu that once matched them is gone for a more recognisable, pubby affair that emphasises locality and produce. In season, expect scotched pheasant eggs with runny yolks on homemade chutney, or poached local asparagus naked but for parmesan shavings, olive oil and a little shallot. Year round a plate of middlewhite pork might include fat sausages, bacon, kidneys, a loin chop, ample crackling and apple mash, leaving little room for nursery puds like treacle tart and vanilla ice cream. Stripped of their celeb-factor, a la carte prices can seem steep but, as compensation, a set menu proves astonishingly good value. Wine options are extensive, ales well kept.