This is the kind of rural inn-with-rooms you dream about. Imagine tiled floors, big wooden beams, granny’s kitchen tables, well-worn leather sofas, seasonal open fires, crack service and a clientele that looks like it’s fresh from a shoot for the Boden catalogue. The kitchen taps into a network of local suppliers and knows how to get the best from their top-notch produce – without making the food too fancy. Terrific-value lunches could be as simple as a braised shoulder of lamb or even a ploughman’s with pickles and soda bread, while supper could run from Caesar salad with cured salmon, peas and broad beans via Welsh beef shin with cep risotto to chocolate marquise with Armagnac custard. Bright ideas in the kitchen lead to bright flavours on the plate, and there’s an interesting wine list too – not forgetting a mind-expanding selection of Welsh cheeses.
A terrific pub list. The 100 or so bins might be mostly European, but the selection and pricing are impressive. A fine sherry range, and 17 wines available in two glass sizes and two carafe sizes complete the picture of a place that knows its market superbly well.