Little Yang Sing

Keeping a low profile in a Chinatown basement, Little Yang Sing has an intimacy that its famous sibling, just round the corner, lacks. The decor is clean & white, & the food (apart, perhaps, from the ‘crispy cheesy’ dim sum rolls) is pure Cantonese. LYS opens late into the night, & its permissive hours mean that it plays to a mixed customer base, from the in-&-out sweet & sour crowd to those in search of the perfect ow yuk (steamed beef balls) dumplings. Staff are stoic, rather than friendly, in the face of dropped chopsticks & enthusiastic drinking.