Chef Andrew Fairlie’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant occupies a quiet corner of the exclusive Gleneagles resort – famed for its golf courses, political gatherings and corporate clout. It’s a calm, sophisticated space with enough formality to create a sense of occasion – diffuse lighting, soft furnishings and lively paintings hung on black walls, all matched by careful service. Fairlie’s precise and highly assured cooking is rooted in the classic European tradition: Scottish lobster, for example, is home-smoked and dressed with warm lime and herb butter, while cinnamon-roasted veal sweetbreads arrive with grilled lettuce and parmesan cream. Seasonal game is also a strength (roasted grouse with caramelised apple and braised savoy cabbage, say), and desserts such as candied chestnut with pumpkin seed sponge and yoghurt sorbet are works of art. The wine list is as long as a school register, but the sommelier can be relied on to come up with some great suggestions.