Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles

You know you’re in a restaurant that takes its offering seriously when the wild mushroom risotto flecked with fresh black Perigord truffle arrives accompanied by the rest of the truffle, which a second waiter proceeds to shave into generous, earthy shards over the top until your nostrils can take no more. A speciality at Andrew Fairlie’s restaurant, this dish depends on the availability of the elusive truffle, but on our recent visit we were lucky. Fairlie’s calm, sophisticated restaurant, occupying a quiet corner of the Gleneagles resort in Perthshire, won its second Michelin star in January 2006, much to the delight of this modest Scot’s many followers. You feel grown-up in Fairlie’s hands: the result of a seamless combination of gastronomic experience, careful service & a decor that’s just formal enough to create a sense of occasion. For this he uses classic white tablecloths, diffuse lighting, soft chenille furnishings & lively paintings hung on black walls. Trained in the French tradition, Fairlie is unafraid of putting masculine, meaty food on the table, evidently sourced from French & Scottish suppliers that have not bred the fat out of their beasts & birds, such is the unmistakeable flavour & tenderness. Sweetbreads quiver like milky mousse, & three different cuts of pork, one of them the juicy cheek, are served up on one plate to look & taste completely different. If you’re going to risk twice-cooked squab pigeon from Anjou, this is the place to do it: on our visit, it was tender, scarlet perfection. The puddings, meanwhile, were sweet works of art, such as you might find at a top Paris eatery. Fairlie’s love of food has communicated itself to the entire restaurant team, led by Dale Dewsbury, who are eager to share their intimate knowledge of how each dish is concocted. It’s an idea to put yourself in the hands of the sommelier for the evening, too: the wine list is as long as a school register & he comes up with some great complementary choices.