One fan of Andrew Fairlie’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant reckons that it’s “easily the best in Scotland”, and we’d certainly agree about its premier-league status. Squirrelled away in a quiet corner of the exclusive Gleneagles resort, it’s a calm, sophisticated space with enough formality to create a sense of occasion – think diffuse lighting, soft furnishings and lively paintings hung on black walls. Fairlie’s precise and highly assured cooking is rooted in the classic European tradition: home-smoked Scottish lobster dressed with warm lime and herb butter is a signature dish, while roast loin and slow-cooked shoulder of lamb are complemented by spiced sausage and celeriac. Seasonal game is also a strength (roasted grouse with caramelised apple and braised savoy cabbage, say), and desserts such as rapeseed oil cake with lemon parfait and lemongrass sorbet are works of art. The wine list is as long as a school register, but sommeliers are on hand to provide wise counsel.