This cheekily named and smartly turned out Thai chain is already spreading its “upmarket bistro” tentacles across southern England and has its sights set on nationwide coverage. At lunchtime you can order various Thai ‘tapas sets’, plump for one ‘big dish’ with rice or choose a ‘combi’, but the kitchen really comes to life in the evening with an enterprising 40-item menu. The titular signature dish comprises steamed baby squid stuffed with minced chicken, squid, basil and chilli, but there’s plenty more to enjoy. Much of the fish comes from British waters, so check out crispy fried sea bass topped with aromatic Thai herbs or ‘sunny bay’ (mixed seafood fired up with roasted chilli oil, lime leaves and sliced fresh chilli). Otherwise, work your way through pork dumplings, hot-and-sour salads, curries, stir-fries and noodles. Well-chosen wines too.