The people from The Pig in Brockenhurst have taken over genteel Hunstrete House and turned it into another self-sufficient foodie enterprise. Like its Hampshire sibling, this is a restaurant-with-rooms with a difference, overlaying mellow Regency civility with a forward-thinking green agenda, shabby-chic interiors and a determinedly laid-back vibe. The ‘greenhouse’ dining room offers “ace-taste” rejigs of British cuisine fuelled by ingredients from the walled garden, the countryside and suppliers within a 25-mile radius of the hotel. Good calls have included a cracking combo of densely flavoured potted duck counterpointed by snappy fennel chutney, an adroit assembly of char-grilled asparagus and radishes (‘picked this morning’) with home-smoked pancetta, and a stonking faggot of venison and pork belly – although the crunchy coating around our ‘Kentucky-fried’ local rabbit wasn’t enough to save it from tasting somewhat underpowered. Carefully chosen wines punch above their price, while hip, helpful young staff seal the deal.