TV chef and heartthrob James Martin has moved into new territory with this self-named restaurant at Manchester 235 – the hottest entertainment and casino complex in the heart of the city. The restaurant itself has been completely refurbished with rustic decor and an open-to-view ‘meat market’ specialising in beef from the Cumbrian Fells, British-reared Wagyu and aged Hereford cuts. Otherwise, the menu gives native regional ingredients an eclectic spin – perhaps whisky- and vanilla-cured salmon with char-grilled cucumber, ketchup and pickled ginger, pan-fried stone bass with cannellini bean and smoked mussel broth or Red Hill pork belly paired with roasted langoustine, pea fricassee and watercress emulsion. There’s also a full menu for vegetarians, while desserts might see sticky toffee pudding alongside baked dark chocolate sablé with pistachios and yoghurt. The food is backed by a well-spread wine list.