Seldon Curry and Liberty Wenham’s collective CV lists stints with Mark Hix, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Rowley Leigh, as well as a spell at Soho big-hitter Ducksoup – a background that should stand them in good stead at their first solo venture. Occupying clean-lined functional premises in the suburb of Clifton, Wallfish takes its name from the old word for snails, and the kitchen relies heavily on the produce from ‘hunter gatherers’ and fish from the West Country boats. Menus vary daily, but expect the likes of Dorset crab with samphire, baked Herefordshire snails (naturally!) or Creedy Carver duck with baby carrots, pea shoots and duck-fat chips. There are also great-value ‘express’ deals at lunchtime – a tenner will buy you a bowl of Exmouth mussels in scrumpy with chips and a drink. The food is backed by a snappy list of well-chosen wines.