As chef/patron of cheery blue-fronted L’Escargot Bleu, Fred Berkmiller is immensely proud of his French heritage – in fact, you can almost imagine him cycling down the Royal Mile draped in a string of onions and whistling Le Marseillaise. Everything about this long-standing bistro is authentically Gallic – from the copper pans glittering on the wall to the vintage poster of Edith Piaf in the front parlour. Tartiflette and snails en croûte are fixtures, as are mains of coq au vin and whole rib of beef carved at the table. Elsewhere, the kitchen blends French produce with the best of the Scottish larder in, say, pike quenelles with lobster sauce, sea bass fillet with a vermouth reduction and Muscat grapes or confit duck with Puy lentils and wild mushrooms. Cheeses come from legendary Hervé Mons and the wine list is totally patriotic too.